Tongass

Tongass National Forest is the largest national forest in the United States, encompassing 16.7 million acres of Southeast Alaska's islands, fjords, and coastal mountains. This vast temperate rainforest stretches from Ketchikan in the south to Yakutat in the north, protecting the most extensive intact temperate rainforest remaining on Earth. The forest includes over 11,000 miles of shoreline, countless islands, and some of the most spectacular scenery in North America. Approximately 5.7 million acres are designated wilderness, providing permanent protection for old-growth rainforest and the wildlife that depends on it.

The forest supports remarkable wildlife populations including one of the world's highest densities of brown and black bears, Sitka black-tailed deer, and wolves. Marine waters host humpback and orca whales, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, and sea otters. Salmon spawn in over 5,000 streams, providing the nutrient foundation for the forest ecosystem. Bald eagles are exceptionally abundant, with some of the highest nesting densities in North America. The forest provides critical habitat for numerous threatened and sensitive species.

The temperate rainforest is dominated by Sitka spruce, western hemlock, and western red cedar, with old-growth trees reaching enormous size in the mild, wet climate. The lush understory includes devil's club, blueberry, and dense fern communities. Mosses and lichens blanket every surface, giving the forest its characteristic green appearance. Muskeg bogs punctuate the forest, supporting specialized plant communities. Alpine meadows and ice fields cap the highest peaks. The forest stores enormous amounts of carbon in its ancient trees and soils.

The forest encompasses the western flank of the Coast Mountains, built by the collision of the Pacific and North American plates. Glaciers carved the deep fjords and U-shaped valleys that characterize the landscape. Active glaciers including those in Glacier Bay continue to shape the terrain. The underlying bedrock includes metamorphic and igneous rocks from millions of years of mountain building. The Fairweather Range in the northern forest includes peaks over 15,000 feet rising directly from sea level.

Southeast Alaska experiences one of the wettest climates in North America, with annual precipitation exceeding 150 inches in some areas. Temperatures are mild year-round due to maritime influence, with summer highs in the 50s-60s°F and winters rarely dropping below 20°F. Rain falls an average of 200 days per year, creating the conditions for temperate rainforest. Fog is extremely common, particularly in summer. Weather changes rapidly with Pacific storm systems.

Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian peoples have inhabited Southeast Alaska for over 10,000 years, developing some of the most sophisticated cultures of the Pacific Northwest Coast. Totem poles, carved canoes, and elaborate potlatch ceremonies reflect the rich cultural heritage. Russian colonization began in the late 1700s, centered on Sitka as the capital of Russian America. American control after 1867 brought commercial fishing, mining, and eventually industrial logging. Native corporations formed under ANCSA now manage significant forestlands.

Tongass National Forest was established in 1907 by President Theodore Roosevelt, one of the first national forests. Industrial timber harvest dominated management for decades, with old-growth clearcuts controversial across the region. The 2001 Roadless Rule and subsequent policies have significantly reduced logging, shifting focus to recreation and conservation. The Tongass remains at the center of debates over old-growth protection, carbon storage, and sustainable forest management. Recent initiatives aim to transition communities from timber dependence.

Misty Fiords and Admiralty Island national monuments protect spectacular wilderness within the forest. The Mendenhall Glacier near Juneau offers accessible glacier viewing and hiking. Tracy Arm and Sawyer Glaciers provide dramatic fjord cruising from Juneau. Pack Creek on Admiralty Island offers premier bear viewing. Ketchikan serves as a gateway to remote wilderness areas. Hundreds of miles of trails and over 150 public use cabins provide recreation access.

Southeast Alaska communities are connected by the Alaska Marine Highway ferry system and commercial air service. Numerous campgrounds, cabins, and day-use areas are scattered throughout the forest. Visitor centers in Ketchikan, Juneau, and other communities provide information. Commercial operators offer boat tours, floatplane access, fishing charters, and guided adventures. Most wilderness areas require boat or float plane access.

The Tongass contains the largest intact temperate rainforest on Earth, with global significance for biodiversity and carbon storage. Old-growth protection has increased dramatically in recent decades. Climate change threatens salmon through warming waters and altered ocean conditions. The forest works with Native corporations and communities on collaborative conservation. Sustainable tourism and fishing support local economies while protecting forest values.