Peter Skene Ogden

Peter Skene Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint is a dramatic roadside park perched on the rim of the Crooked River Canyon in central Oregon, offering spectacular views of the canyon, river, and multiple bridges spanning the gorge. Located along Highway 97 north of Redmond, this viewpoint provides one of Oregon's most impressive canyon vistas from a safe, easily accessible location. The site is named after Peter Skene Ogden, a Hudson's Bay Company fur trader who explored much of Oregon in the 1820s and 1830s, though his exact routes remain debated. The canyon itself was carved by the Crooked River through layers of volcanic rock, creating near-vertical walls rising over 300 feet above the river. Three bridges visible from the viewpoint represent different eras of transportation across this obstacle.

The canyon provides habitat for wildlife adapted to the high desert and riparian environments, including golden eagles and prairie falcons that nest on cliff faces and hunt over surrounding juniper woodlands. River otters utilize the Crooked River, while mule deer and elk browse in riparian vegetation and adjacent uplands. The canyon walls support rock-dwelling species including yellow-bellied marmots, woodrats, and various lizard species basking on sunny ledges. Turkey vultures and ravens soar on thermals rising from the heated canyon walls. The river supports fish including native redband trout and introduced species, while riparian areas provide critical habitat in the otherwise arid landscape.

Vegetation transitions from juniper woodlands on the canyon rim to riparian vegetation along the river, with big sagebrush, bitterbrush, and native bunchgrasses on uplands. The river corridor supports willows, water birch, and occasional cottonwoods providing shade and bank stabilization. Canyon walls support limited vegetation in cracks and on ledges where moisture collects, including drought-adapted grasses, mosses, and lichens. Wildflowers bloom briefly in spring including desert parsley, lupines, and balsamroot before summer heat and drought desiccate herbaceous plants. Western juniper dominates the surrounding plateau, with individual trees sometimes exceeding 1,000 years old. Invasive cheatgrass has colonized disturbed areas, increasing fire frequency and altering ecosystem processes.

The Crooked River has carved its canyon through layers of basalt lava flows and volcanic ash deposits erupted from vents across central Oregon over millions of years. The canyon's near-vertical walls reflect the erosion-resistant nature of columnar basalt, which fractures into vertical joints allowing the river to cut downward efficiently. Exposed rock layers reveal the sequence of volcanic events, with some flows showing columnar jointing formed as lava cooled and contracted. The river's course was influenced by faulting and folding that tilted rock layers and created weaknesses the river exploited. Upstream, the Crooked River is dammed forming Lake Billy Chinook, dramatically altering the river's natural flow patterns and sediment transport. The canyon provides excellent exposures for studying central Oregon's volcanic geology.

The area experiences a high desert climate with cold winters, hot summers, and low annual precipitation averaging 10-12 inches. Summer temperatures frequently exceed 95°F and can surpass 105°F, while winter temperatures regularly drop below freezing with occasional severe cold. Most precipitation falls during winter and spring, with summer being extremely dry apart from rare thunderstorms. Strong winds are common particularly during spring months, and the exposed viewpoint can experience gusts exceeding 50 mph. The canyon creates its own microclimate, with cooler temperatures and higher humidity along the river contrasting with the hot, dry rim. Snow accumulation is typically modest but can occasionally be significant, and ice forms along the river during coldest periods.

The Crooked River canyon was used by Native peoples including the Northern Paiute and Warm Springs for thousands of years, providing water, fish, and protected campsites in an otherwise harsh high desert environment. Peter Skene Ogden led Hudson's Bay Company fur trapping expeditions through central Oregon in the 1820s and 1830s, though whether he specifically visited this canyon is uncertain. Early Euro-American settlement was limited by the canyon obstacle, requiring detours or difficult crossings. The first bridge was built in 1926, dramatically improving north-south travel through central Oregon. A second, higher bridge was constructed in 1962 to carry Highway 97 above the canyon, and a third pedestrian bridge opened in 2003 creating one of the highest base jumps in the United States (now primarily used for observation).

Peter Skene Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint was established to provide safe viewing access to the dramatic canyon and bridge engineering, capitalizing on a natural break in the highway for a rest area and viewpoint. Oregon State Parks developed the site with parking, restrooms, and viewing platforms that take advantage of the spectacular vistas. The viewpoint became a popular stop for travelers on Highway 97, which carries significant traffic between Bend and The Dalles. Interpretive panels explain the canyon geology, Peter Skene Ogden's explorations, and bridge construction history. The site requires minimal maintenance beyond facility upkeep and vegetation management, with the dramatic natural setting providing the primary attraction.

The primary attraction is the dramatic canyon viewpoint offering vistas of near-vertical basalt cliffs, the Crooked River far below, and three bridges spanning the gorge at different heights. Viewing platforms provide safe vantage points for photography and observation. Interpretive panels explain geological processes that created the canyon and the engineering challenges of bridging it. The upper bridge carrying Highway 97 rises 295 feet above the river, while the historic 1926 bridge sits lower in the canyon. The pedestrian bridge, once used for base jumping before being restricted, offers unique perspectives. The site provides restroom facilities making it a popular rest stop for travelers. Nearby attractions include Smith Rock State Park's climbing destination and the High Desert Museum near Bend.

The viewpoint is located along Highway 97 approximately 9 miles north of Redmond, easily accessed from both northbound and southbound lanes with separate parking areas. Facilities include ample paved parking, restrooms, picnic tables, and paved viewing areas accessible to most visitors. The site is day-use only with no camping, and access is free year-round. The exposed location can be extremely hot during summer and cold and windy during winter, requiring visitors to prepare appropriately. Redmond to the south and Madras to the north provide full services. The viewpoint makes an excellent stop for travelers between Bend and the Columbia River, combining natural spectacle with rest area functions.

The viewpoint area is managed to preserve scenic qualities while accommodating heavy visitation from Highway 97 traffic, with designated viewing areas preventing erosion from trampling. Native vegetation on the canyon rim is adapted to harsh conditions and disturbance, but exotic annual grasses threaten to alter fire regimes. The Crooked River's natural flow patterns have been dramatically altered by upstream dams, affecting riparian ecosystems and fish populations. Peregrine falcons and golden eagles nesting on canyon walls are protected from disturbance with seasonal closures in sensitive areas if needed. The site serves an educational function interpreting high desert geology and ecology to travelers who might not otherwise visit natural areas. Climate change impacts including reduced streamflows, increased fire frequency, and vegetation changes are monitored as they affect both natural and scenic resources.