El Malpais

El Malpais National Monument and National Conservation Area together protect over 376,000 acres of dramatic volcanic landscape in west-central New Mexico, preserving one of the most recent volcanic areas in the continental United States where some lava flows are only 2,000-3,000 years old. The name means 'the badlands' in Spanish, aptly describing the rugged, treacherous lava terrain that challenged historic travelers and continues to demand respect from modern visitors. The monument showcases a remarkable variety of volcanic features including extensive lava flows, cinder cones, ice caves that maintain permanent ice despite hot summers, and one of the world's longest lava tube systems. This living laboratory of volcanism offers profound opportunities to witness geological forces that have shaped the American Southwest.

Despite the seemingly inhospitable volcanic terrain, El Malpais supports surprisingly diverse wildlife adapted to the challenging landscape. Mule deer and elk navigate the rugged lava, finding pathways through terrain that appears impassable. Black bears and mountain lions inhabit the forested areas along the monument's margins and in forested kipukas—islands of older land surrounded by younger lava. Various bat species utilize the lava tubes for roosting, including several myotis species and the sensitive Townsend's big-eared bat. Raptors including golden eagles and red-tailed hawks hunt from thermal updrafts above the black lava. The unique environments support distinctive invertebrate communities, including cave-adapted species in the lava tubes.

Vegetation colonization on volcanic landscapes offers a living laboratory of ecological succession, with different plant communities representing various stages of soil development on lava of different ages. Pioneer species including lichens and mosses colonize bare lava, beginning the slow process of soil formation that takes thousands of years. Younger flows support only scattered pioneers, while older flows have developed sufficient soil for ponderosa pine and Douglas fir forests. Forested kipukas—islands of older land completely surrounded by younger lava flows—preserve isolated forest ecosystems that provide important habitat and scientific study opportunities. Pockets of soil in collapsed lava tubes support unique plant communities.

The El Malpais volcanic field has been active for approximately three million years, with the most recent eruptions occurring only 2,000-3,000 years ago—geologically yesterday. The McCarty's Flow, erupted around 3,000 years ago, remains largely unvegetated and presents a forbidding landscape of jumbled lava virtually unchanged since cooling. The monument protects one of the world's longest lava tube systems, with over 17 miles of documented passages where flowing lava once traveled. Bandera Volcano, a well-preserved cinder cone, rises above the lava fields. Permanent ice caves maintain year-round freezing temperatures through a combination of elevation, insulation, and cold air trapping, despite surface temperatures exceeding 90°F in summer.

The monument experiences a semi-arid continental climate with warm summers, cold winters, and significant daily temperature variations. Summer temperatures typically reach the 80s to low 90s°F, but the dark lava surfaces can become extremely hot—exceeding 150°F—making sturdy boots essential and early morning hiking advisable. Winters bring cold temperatures and moderate snowfall, with the high elevation (7,000-8,000+ feet) creating significantly cooler conditions than surrounding lowlands. The permanent ice caves maintain near-freezing temperatures year-round, a remarkable phenomenon in this otherwise warm climate. Summer monsoons bring afternoon thunderstorms that can create dangerous lightning conditions in the exposed lava fields.

Ancestral Puebloan peoples lived around and traveled across the volcanic landscape for thousands of years, as evidenced by rock cairns marking ancient trails across the treacherous lava and archaeological sites at the lava field's margins. These trails connected communities and provided access to resources including obsidian, pine nuts, and game. The Acoma, Zuni, Laguna, and Ramah Navajo peoples maintain cultural connections to these lands today. Spanish explorers encountered the lava fields and recognized them as significant barriers to travel. The Zuni-Acoma Trail, marked by rock cairns placed by ancestral peoples centuries ago, remains hikeable today. Historic ranching operations utilized the grasslands surrounding the lava flows.

Congress established El Malpais National Monument in 1987 to protect the volcanic landscape and its associated natural and cultural resources. Simultaneously, El Malpais National Conservation Area was established under Bureau of Land Management administration, together protecting over 376,000 acres. The monument and conservation area are managed cooperatively by the National Park Service and BLM. The adjacent Bandera Volcano and Ice Cave remain privately operated, providing complementary volcanic experiences including guided access to a classic cinder cone and remarkable ice cave. Development within the monument has remained minimal to preserve the wild character of the landscape.

The ancient Zuni-Acoma Trail follows a route marked by rock cairns placed by ancestral Puebloan peoples, crossing approximately 7.5 miles of rugged lava with exceptional navigation challenges and offering insights into ancient travel. Junction Cave and other lava tube caves offer underground exploration for prepared visitors equipped with multiple light sources and appropriate footwear. The Sandstone Bluffs Overlook provides panoramic views across the lava fields to distant mountains without requiring navigation of the lava itself. La Ventana Natural Arch, at 125 feet wide, is one of the largest natural arches in New Mexico, accessible via a short trail. Big Tubes Area offers relatively accessible lava tube exploration with several cave entrances.

The Northwest New Mexico Visitor Center, located in Grants at the junction of I-40 and NM Highway 53, provides comprehensive orientation, exhibits, and ranger-led programs for both El Malpais and El Morro National Monument. A ranger station on NM Highway 53 offers additional information and serves as a trailhead for several popular hikes. No camping is available within the monument, but adjacent BLM lands offer primitive camping opportunities. The privately operated Bandera Volcano and Ice Cave, located between the monument units, provides guided access to a cinder cone and ice cave for a fee. The town of Grants offers full services including restaurants, groceries, fuel, and lodging. High-clearance vehicles are recommended for some backcountry access roads.

Protecting the lava tube caves and their sensitive inhabitants presents ongoing management challenges. White-nose syndrome, the devastating fungal disease affecting bat populations across North America, has prompted closures of some caves and implementation of decontamination protocols. The fragile cave environments can be permanently damaged by careless visitors, requiring education and monitoring. Lava tube caves remain closed or restricted to protect roosting bats and unique cave ecosystems. Managing recreation on the young lava flows prevents trail proliferation and damage to pioneer plant communities that have taken thousands of years to establish. Climate change could affect the ice caves as temperatures warm, potentially ending the remarkable phenomenon of permanent ice in the desert Southwest.