Trail of Tears

Trail of Tears State Forest encompasses 5,114 acres of rugged Ozark Hills terrain in Union County, Illinois, located five miles northwest of Jonesboro and 20 miles south of Murphysboro. The forest takes its name from the tragic forced removal of Cherokee, Creek, and Chickasaw peoples during 1838-39, who overwintered at makeshift camps four miles south of the current forest boundary during their devastating march to Oklahoma Territory. Established in 1929 when Illinois purchased 3,000 acres of Shawnee Hills land, the site was initially named Kohn-Jackson Forest, later Union County State Forest, before receiving its present name honoring this somber chapter of American history. The Civilian Conservation Corps improved the forest during the Great Depression era. Today, Trail of Tears State Forest contains a state tree nursery, the 222-acre Ozark Hills Nature Preserve, and 22 miles of trails, preserving one of Illinois' most ecologically significant landscapes while remembering those who suffered during the forced removal.

Trail of Tears State Forest supports exceptionally diverse wildlife communities reflecting its position in the Ozark Hills, one of Illinois' most biodiverse regions. Woodland mammals include white-tailed deer, red and gray foxes, coyotes, and the elusive bobcat, along with smaller species including fox and gray squirrels, chipmunks, flying squirrels, opossums, skunks, and raccoons. The forest's large, contiguous woodland tract supports interior forest bird species including numerous warblers, thrushes, and other neotropical migrants that require extensive unbroken habitat for successful breeding. Raptors including red-shouldered hawks, broad-winged hawks, and barred owls hunt throughout the forest. The clear streams with gravel bottoms support diverse aquatic communities. Two venomous snake species occur within the forest: timber rattlesnakes and northern copperheads, both requiring the rocky, forested habitat the site provides. Amphibians thrive in the moist stream valleys, while various lizard and non-venomous snake species occupy the drier ridgetops.

Trail of Tears State Forest harbors an remarkable 620 species of flowering plants, ferns, and fern allies, reflecting the diverse microclimates created by its rugged terrain. Dry ridgetops and south-facing slopes support drought-tolerant communities dominated by black oaks, white oaks, and hickories, with extremely dry sites featuring prairie-like openings called barrens and hill prairies. These open areas contain gnarled, open-grown trees alongside distinctive shrubs including wild azalea, farkleberry, and lowbush blueberry. The moist stream valleys support dramatically different communities, with American elm, sweetgum, tuliptree, sycamore, and sugar maple forming the canopy over an understory of redbud, deciduous holly, and spicebush. Thickets of wild cane, a native bamboo, occur in some valley bottoms. The 222-acre Ozark Hills Nature Preserve protects particularly significant plant communities. This botanical diversity reflects both the varied terrain and the forest's position where Ozark and Mississippi Embayment floras intermingle.

Trail of Tears State Forest occupies the Ozark Hills, one of the most rugged landscapes in Illinois, characterized by narrow rocky ridgetops, steep slopes, and stream valleys hemmed in by precipitous terrain. The hills are composed primarily of chert, a weathered limestone residue that creates the region's distinctive rocky character. Unlike much of Illinois, this area escaped glaciation, allowing the ancient landscape to persist while developing the steep topography through millennia of stream erosion. Soils throughout the forest are shallow and susceptible to erosion, particularly on the steep slopes. The ridge-and-valley topography creates dramatic elevation changes within short distances, contributing to the site's microclimatic diversity. Clear streams with gravel and bedrock bottoms flow through the narrow forested valleys, their channels cutting through the resistant rock layers. This geologic setting distinguishes the Ozark Hills from the flat, glaciated landscapes dominating most of Illinois.

Trail of Tears State Forest experiences a humid subtropical climate characteristic of Southern Illinois, with hot, humid summers and mild to moderately cold winters. Summer temperatures regularly reach the upper 80s to low 90s Fahrenheit, with high humidity creating challenging conditions for strenuous hiking. Thunderstorms occur frequently during spring and summer, and the region occasionally experiences severe weather including tornadoes. The rugged terrain creates microclimatic variations, with cool air pooling in valleys while ridgetops experience more exposed conditions. Fall brings comfortable temperatures and reduced humidity, making autumn an ideal season for hiking and enjoying fall foliage. Winters are variable but generally mild compared to northern Illinois, with temperatures typically ranging from the 20s to 50s Fahrenheit. Snow events occur but significant accumulation is uncommon. Spring arrives early, with wildflowers blooming in March and April before the canopy fully leafs out. The extended growing season supports the region's remarkable plant diversity.

The Trail of Tears State Forest area carries profound historical significance extending from ancient Native American presence through the tragic events of the 1830s. Indigenous peoples inhabited this region for thousands of years, utilizing the rich hunting grounds and waterways of the Ozark Hills. The most sobering chapter came during the winter of 1838-39, when the Cherokee, Creek, and Chickasaw nations were forcibly removed from their southeastern homelands by the U.S. Army and marched to reservations in Oklahoma Territory. These displaced peoples overwintered at makeshift camps four miles south of the present forest boundary, enduring bitter cold and starvation that claimed hundreds of lives. This forced removal, known as the Trail of Tears, represents one of the most tragic episodes in American history. The forest's name serves as a permanent memorial to those who suffered and died during this unjust displacement. Early European-American settlers found the rugged terrain challenging for agriculture, allowing much of the land to remain forested.

The establishment of Trail of Tears State Forest began in 1929 when Illinois purchased approximately 3,000 acres of Shawnee Hills land, initially naming it Kohn-Jackson Forest after previous landowners. The site was soon renamed Union County State Forest, reflecting its geographic location. During the Great Depression, the Civilian Conservation Corps established camps within the forest and undertook significant improvement projects, constructing trails, roads, and facilities that formed the foundation for current recreational infrastructure. The forest's name was eventually changed to Trail of Tears State Forest to honor the Native Americans who suffered during the forced removal of 1838-39. Subsequent land acquisitions expanded the forest to its current 5,114 acres. The Illinois Department of Natural Resources manages the site as a multiple-use forest balancing timber production, recreation, wildlife habitat, watershed protection, and ecosystem preservation. The establishment of the 222-acre Ozark Hills Nature Preserve protected particularly significant natural communities within the forest.

Trail of Tears State Forest offers 22 miles of trails open to both hiking and horseback riding, winding through some of Illinois' most spectacular rugged terrain. The Trail of Tears Fire Trail Loop provides an accessible introduction to the forest's character, while the Cross Country Trail offers more extended exploration opportunities. The Short Loop via CCC Heritage Trailhead connects visitors with the Civilian Conservation Corps legacy, passing areas developed during the 1930s. Fire Trail 12 Loop via the campground provides camping guests with immediate trail access. The 222-acre Ozark Hills Nature Preserve protects exceptional botanical communities and offers opportunities to experience the forest's most pristine areas. The Union State Nursery, located within the forest, produces millions of tree seedlings annually for reforestation projects throughout Illinois. Rocky outcrops, scenic overlooks, and clear streams add visual interest throughout the trail system. Spring wildflower displays attract botanists and nature enthusiasts, while fall foliage transforms the forest canopy.

Trail of Tears State Forest provides facilities serving hikers, equestrians, campers, and hunters throughout the year. The campground offers sites for tent and RV camping, providing a base for extended exploration of the forest's trail system. Equestrian facilities include trailer parking and access to the 22-mile trail network. Picnic areas provide day-use opportunities for visitors seeking shorter experiences. Hunting is permitted during appropriate seasons, with the diverse habitat supporting deer, turkey, and small game populations. The forest is located five miles northwest of Jonesboro and 20 miles south of Murphysboro, accessible via state and county roads. Jonesboro and nearby communities provide basic services, while larger cities including Carbondale and Cape Girardeau offer full lodging, dining, and shopping options. Visitors should be prepared for rugged terrain and carry adequate water, as the steep trails can be challenging. Trail maps are available at the forest headquarters.

Trail of Tears State Forest is managed as a multiple-use site balancing timber production, wildlife habitat, ecosystem preservation, watershed protection, and recreation. The Illinois Department of Natural Resources Division of Land Management implements sustainable forestry practices that maintain healthy oak-hickory forests while providing timber resources. The 222-acre Ozark Hills Nature Preserve receives intensive protection as an Illinois Nature Preserve, safeguarding rare plant communities and exemplary natural habitats. Prescribed fire is used to maintain the distinctive barrens and hill prairie communities that support specialized plant species. Stream protection measures preserve water quality in the clear gravel-bottom streams that distinguish this region. The Union State Nursery produces native tree seedlings that support reforestation efforts across Illinois. Invasive species control protects the remarkable botanical diversity of 620 plant species documented within the forest. The forest's protection ensures that both its ecological significance and its role as a memorial to Trail of Tears victims endure for future generations.