Bears Ears

Bears Ears National Monument is a vast protected landscape in southeastern Utah named for a pair of distinctive buttes that rise to elevations exceeding 8,900 and 9,000 feet, standing more than 2,000 feet above the surrounding plateau. Encompassing approximately 1.36 million acres of public lands administered jointly by the Bureau of Land Management and U.S. Forest Service, the monument protects an extraordinary concentration of cultural, archaeological, and geological resources. The region contains over 100,000 archaeological sites spanning at least 14,000 years of human history, making it one of the most significant cultural landscapes in North America. The monument represents a historic achievement in Indigenous-informed conservation, with its management guided by the Bears Ears Commission composed of elected officials from five tribal nations.

Bears Ears National Monument encompasses diverse ecosystems ranging from high-elevation mountain forests to low-lying desert canyons, supporting varied wildlife communities adapted to the dramatic topographical and climatic gradients. Desert cottontail rabbits, mule deer, coyotes, and various reptiles inhabit the lower canyon lands and desert mesas. Higher elevations in the pinyon-juniper woodlands and mountain areas support different assemblages of wildlife. The remote canyons and mesas provide critical habitat for species requiring undisturbed wilderness. Bird species range from desert-adapted species in the lowlands to mountain and forest species at higher elevations. The ecological connectivity between the monument's various habitats supports wildlife movement and genetic exchange across the landscape.

The monument's vegetation varies dramatically with elevation, from desert scrubland and grasslands in the lower canyons to pinyon-juniper woodlands on the mesas and coniferous forests on the Bears Ears buttes. Native grasses including Indian ricegrass and dropseed historically provided food sources for Indigenous peoples, who harvested and ground them into meal for bread. Prickly pear cactus yields edible fruits that can be peeled and eaten, while yucca plants provided fiber for weaving baskets. The pinyon pine produces nutritious nuts that remain an important traditional food source. Riparian zones along perennial streams support lush vegetation including cottonwoods and willows, creating vital wildlife corridors through the otherwise arid landscape.

The geological features of Bears Ears are iconic of the American Southwest, with the twin buttes capped by erosion-resistant Wingate Sandstone rising prominently above the surrounding landscape. The region features deep sandstone canyons carved into colorful sedimentary rock layers, desert mesas, and dramatic cliff formations. Comb Ridge, an 80-mile-long monocline, represents a dramatic geological feature within the monument. The sandstone formations contain numerous alcoves and overhangs that provided shelter for ancestral peoples and now preserve their archaeological remains. Cedar Mesa and Grand Gulch showcase classic canyon country geology with their intricate networks of slot canyons and natural amphitheaters carved by water erosion over millions of years.

Bears Ears National Monument experiences significant climatic variation due to its range of elevations from canyon bottoms around 4,500 feet to the butte summits above 9,000 feet. Temperatures can vary dramatically from one area to another, with lower canyons experiencing hot summer temperatures while higher elevations remain cool. The region receives relatively low precipitation typical of the Colorado Plateau, with most moisture arriving as summer monsoon thunderstorms and winter snow. Hikers should be prepared for extreme temperature swings between day and night, intense sun exposure, and limited water availability. Flash flood danger exists in narrow canyons during monsoon season, requiring careful attention to weather conditions.

Bears Ears holds profound significance for multiple Native American nations who have occupied and utilized this landscape for over 14,000 years. Clovis people hunted on Cedar Mesa as early as 13,000 years ago, leaving behind distinctive projectile points. Ancestral Puebloans lived in the alcoves along Comb Ridge and grew corn from approximately AD 900 to 1350, constructing elaborate cliff dwellings and granaries. The Bears Ears Intertribal Coalition, comprising the Hopi, Navajo, Uintah and Ouray Ute, Ute Mountain Ute, and Zuni Nations, represents tribes with deep spiritual and cultural connections to the region. Newspaper Rock along Indian Creek preserves the largest collection of petroglyphs in Utah, documenting thousands of years of human presence.

President Barack Obama designated Bears Ears as a national monument in December 2016, responding to a collaborative proposal from the Bears Ears Intertribal Coalition seeking protection for ancestral lands. This marked the first national monument created at the request of Native American tribes. In December 2017, President Trump dramatically reduced the monument's boundaries, replacing it with two smaller monuments. President Joseph Biden restored Bears Ears National Monument to 1.36 million acres in October 2021. The monument's management plan, finalized collaboratively with the Bears Ears Commission, represents a historic achievement in Indigenous co-management of federal lands, with tribal officials working alongside federal agencies to guide resource protection and public access.

Bears Ears National Monument offers exceptional opportunities for exploring archaeological sites and dramatic canyon landscapes, though visitors should note that no constructed trails or directional signs exist along most hiking routes. Cedar Mesa and Comb Ridge require day hiking permits available through recreation.gov. The House on Fire ruin in South Fork of Mule Canyon is one of the most photographed archaeological sites, a 2.5-mile round-trip hike to view well-preserved structures. Grand Gulch offers multi-day backpacking through a canyon containing hundreds of archaeological sites. Newspaper Rock preserves thousands of petroglyphs along Indian Creek Scenic Byway. The twin Bears Ears buttes provide a challenging climb with panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

Bears Ears National Monument has minimal developed facilities, preserving its wilderness character. The Kane Gulch Ranger Station and Monticello Field Office provide information and sell required Cedar Mesa permits. No campgrounds exist within the monument, though dispersed camping is permitted with Leave No Trace practices. The nearest services are in Blanding and Monticello, Utah. Highway 95 traverses the southern portion while Highway 261 and the Moki Dugway provide access to Cedar Mesa from the west. Visitors must be prepared for primitive conditions, carry adequate water, and understand that cell phone service is extremely limited. The remote location requires careful trip planning.

Bears Ears National Monument faces ongoing conservation challenges including protection of vulnerable archaeological sites, management of increasing visitation, and balancing public access with cultural sensitivity. The historic co-management arrangement with the Bears Ears Commission establishes a model for Indigenous-informed conservation, incorporating traditional ecological knowledge and cultural values into resource management. Looting and vandalism of archaeological sites remain persistent threats, requiring vigilant monitoring and public education. Climate change impacts including drought, increased fire risk, and changing vegetation patterns pose long-term challenges. Visitors are urged to practice "visit with respect" principles, staying on designated routes, never touching or disturbing archaeological resources, and leaving all artifacts in place.