Admiralty Island

Admiralty Island National Monument protects 937,000 acres of pristine wilderness in southeastern Alaska, encompassing nearly all of Admiralty Island, the seventh-largest island in the United States. Known to the Tlingit people as Kootznoowoo, meaning 'Fortress of the Bears,' the island supports one of the highest densities of brown bears in North America, with approximately 1,600 bears—about one per square mile. The monument is part of the Tongass National Forest and features old-growth temperate rainforest, rugged mountains rising to 4,650 feet, and over 670 miles of shoreline. Designated in 1978, Admiralty Island offers exceptional opportunities for wildlife viewing, kayaking, and experiencing intact coastal rainforest ecosystems.

The island's remarkable brown bear population thrives on abundant salmon runs, with bears congregating at streams during summer and fall spawning seasons. Sitka black-tailed deer are plentiful throughout the forested lowlands, providing prey for wolves that inhabit the island. Bald eagles nest in extraordinary numbers along the shoreline, with over 800 nesting pairs documented. Harbor seals, Steller sea lions, and humpback whales frequent the surrounding waters, while river otters and mink hunt along streams and coastlines. The monument's isolation has allowed wildlife populations to remain healthy and relatively undisturbed by human development.

Admiralty Island is cloaked in temperate rainforest dominated by Sitka spruce and western hemlock, with some of the largest old-growth trees in Southeast Alaska. The lush understory features devil's club, blueberry, huckleberry, and skunk cabbage thriving in the wet maritime climate. Massive fallen logs create nurse logs that support new generations of trees, while mosses and lichens drape every surface in green. Alpine meadows and muskeg bogs punctuate the forested landscape at higher elevations and in poorly drained areas. The forest provides critical habitat for wildlife and represents one of the most intact temperate rainforest ecosystems remaining in North America.

Admiralty Island formed through complex tectonic processes along the Pacific margin, with the underlying bedrock consisting primarily of metamorphic and volcanic rocks. Glacial activity during the Pleistocene carved the island's rugged topography, creating U-shaped valleys, cirques, and the numerous lakes that dot the interior. The island's mountains rise steeply from sea level to nearly 4,650 feet at the summit of Mount Distik. Active geological processes include ongoing erosion, landslides on steep slopes, and the gradual rebound of the land following glacial retreat. Rich mineral deposits led to historical mining activity, though the monument designation now protects most of the island from development.

The monument experiences a cool, wet maritime climate typical of Southeast Alaska, with mild temperatures year-round and abundant precipitation. Annual rainfall exceeds 100 inches in many areas, sustaining the lush rainforest vegetation. Summer temperatures range from 50 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, while winters are mild by Alaska standards, typically remaining above 25 degrees. Cloud cover, fog, and rain are common throughout the year, with clear days relatively rare. The moderating influence of the Pacific Ocean prevents temperature extremes but creates persistently damp conditions.

The Tlingit people have inhabited Admiralty Island for thousands of years, developing sophisticated cultures centered on fishing, hunting, and the rich resources of the temperate rainforest. The name Kootznoowoo reflects the Tlingit's deep knowledge of and respect for the island's bear population. Traditional villages were located along the shoreline, with seasonal camps established throughout the island for fishing and gathering. Russian and later American colonization brought significant changes, including commercial fishing, mining, and logging operations. The Tlingit community of Angoon remains the only permanent settlement on the island, maintaining cultural traditions and connections to ancestral lands.

President Jimmy Carter designated Admiralty Island as a National Monument in 1978 under the Antiquities Act, responding to threats from proposed logging and mining development. The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act of 1980 confirmed the monument status and established the 955,747-acre Kootznoowoo Wilderness within its boundaries. Management responsibility lies with the U.S. Forest Service as part of the Tongass National Forest, rather than the National Park Service. The monument's creation represented a major victory for conservationists seeking to protect Southeast Alaska's old-growth rainforests. Today the monument balances wilderness preservation with continued access for traditional Tlingit uses and recreational activities.

Pack Creek Bear Viewing Area offers one of Alaska's premier bear-watching experiences, with a permit system ensuring quality wildlife encounters during the July-August salmon run. Cross Admiralty Canoe Route traverses the island through a chain of lakes and portages, providing a multi-day wilderness paddling adventure. Seymour Canal, a long protected waterway on the island's eastern side, offers excellent kayaking with opportunities to observe bears, eagles, and marine mammals. The Tiedeman Slough area provides access to old-growth forest and salmon streams. Forest Service cabins at several locations offer overnight accommodations for those exploring the island's remote areas.

Access to Admiralty Island is by floatplane or boat from Juneau, located approximately 15 miles to the east across Stephens Passage. The Alaska Marine Highway ferry serves Angoon, providing an alternative access point to the island. Pack Creek Bear Viewing Area requires permits during peak season, available through a lottery system operated by the Forest Service. Several Forest Service public use cabins provide basic overnight accommodations at various locations around the island. No roads or developed campgrounds exist within the monument, requiring visitors to be self-sufficient. The Admiralty Island National Monument office in Juneau provides information and permit services.

Protection of old-growth temperate rainforest remains the monument's primary conservation mission, preserving habitat for bears, eagles, and countless other species dependent on intact forest ecosystems. Climate change poses emerging threats through altered precipitation patterns, changing salmon runs, and potential shifts in forest composition. The monument works with the Tlingit community of Angoon to incorporate traditional knowledge into resource management. Sustainable bear viewing practices at Pack Creek aim to minimize habituation while providing meaningful wildlife encounters. Ongoing monitoring tracks bear populations, salmon returns, and forest health to inform adaptive management strategies.