Surrey Hills

The Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty covers 422 square kilometres of distinctive landscapes in Surrey, designated in 1958. Located within the London commuter belt yet retaining rural character, the area encompasses the North Downs chalk ridge, the Greensand Hills, and the Low Weald clay vales. The landscape is characterized by dramatic chalk escarpments including Box Hill, ancient woodland including significant areas of yew woodland, heathland remnants, and pastoral farmland. The North Downs Way National Trail traverses the AONB, following the chalk ridge. The area supports diverse habitats with species-rich chalk grassland, lowland heath, veteran trees, and rivers including the Mole and Wey. Cultural heritage includes prehistoric hillforts, Roman roads, medieval churches, historic estates with designed landscapes, and literary associations with authors including Jane Austen and E.M. Forster. The AONB faces exceptional development pressure as part of southeast England's growth area, with the M25 motorway encircling it. The designation balances conservation with the reality of being one of the most populated and pressured protected landscapes in Europe, requiring innovative approaches to maintaining landscape character and biodiversity while meeting community needs. Over 390,000 people live within or adjacent to the AONB.

Wildlife in the Surrey Hills includes both resident and migratory species. The area supports important populations of butterflies, including the rare silver-spotted skipper and chalkhill blue. Birds of prey such as red kites and buzzards soar above the downs, while nightingales and woodlarks contribute to the rich soundscape. Mammals include roe deer, dormice, and several bat species. The varied habitats also harbor numerous invertebrates, including the endangered Roman snail.

The Surrey Hills support diverse plant communities adapted to its varied soils and topography. Chalk grasslands host rare orchids, including the pyramidal and bee orchids, alongside characteristic herbs like horseshoe vetch and wild thyme. Ancient woodlands feature majestic beech, oak, and yew trees, some over 500 years old. Spring brings spectacular displays of bluebells in areas like Ranmore Common, while heathlands showcase purple heather and yellow gorse in late summer.

The distinctive landscape of the Surrey Hills was formed during the Cretaceous period, approximately 65-145 million years ago. The area's iconic chalk escarpment of the North Downs represents ancient seabeds, while the Greensand Ridge consists of harder sandstone layers. This varied geology creates a dramatic landscape of steep slopes, hidden valleys, and exposed hilltops. The porous nature of chalk has led to the formation of dry valleys and characteristic grasslands, while clay and sandstone areas support woodland habitats.

The Surrey Hills enjoy a temperate maritime climate typical of southern England, with mild winters and warm summers. Average temperatures range from 2-8°C in winter to 12-23°C in summer. The area receives approximately 800mm of rainfall annually, distributed fairly evenly throughout the year. Spring and autumn offer particularly pleasant conditions for outdoor activities, while summer brings long daylight hours ideal for evening walks. The elevated position of the hills can make them slightly cooler and windier than surrounding lowlands, so visitors should dress accordingly.

The Surrey Hills have been shaped by human activity for over 6,000 years, from Neolithic farmers to Victorian railway builders. Ancient trackways like the North Downs Way follow prehistoric trading routes, while medieval churches and manor houses dot the landscape. The area played a crucial role in England's industrial heritage, with its abundant timber fueling glass and iron production. Designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1958, the hills have long been a retreat for London's elite, inspiring artists and writers including Jane Austen and E.M. Forster.

The Surrey Hills have been shaped by human activity for thousands of years, with archaeological evidence including Neolithic long barrows and Bronze Age field systems. Iron Age communities constructed hillforts including at Holmbury and Hascombe, utilizing defensive advantages of elevated positions. Roman roads including Stane Street crossed the area, connecting London with Chichester. Medieval farming established the settlement pattern of nucleated villages with surrounding open fields, later enclosed. The area's woodland was managed through coppicing and pollarding for timber and fuel. The Wey and Godalming Navigation, one of Britain's earliest canals, was constructed in the 17th century for transporting goods including timber and agricultural products. The 18th and 19th centuries saw development of large estates with designed landscapes around country houses, many now National Trust properties including Polesden Lacey and Clandon Park. Sand extraction and other small industries utilized geological resources. Victorian railway expansion enabled suburban development and day trippers from London, with Box Hill becoming a popular excursion destination. The area inspired literary works including Jane Austen's "Emma" with its famous Box Hill picnic scene. World War II brought military training and defensive installations. Post-war suburban expansion threatened the landscape, prompting conservation advocacy that achieved AONB designation in 1958. The M25 motorway constructed in the 1980s created a major infrastructure intrusion. Recent decades have seen increasing recreation pressure alongside continued development pressures requiring careful management.

Key landmarks within the Surrey Hills include Box Hill, famous for its panoramic views and Olympic cycling route; Leith Hill Tower, the highest point in southeast England; and the dramatic Devil's Punch Bowl natural amphitheatre. The area features numerous vineyards producing award-winning English sparkling wines, historic market towns like Dorking and Guildford, and extensive networks of public footpaths and bridleways. Silent Pool, a spring-fed lake shrouded in legend, and the picturesque Deepdene Trail showcase the region's romantic appeal.

The Surrey Hills are exceptionally accessible, completely encircled by the M25 motorway with access via numerous junctions and A-roads including the A24, A25, and A3. The area lies within easy reach of London, Guildford, and other major towns. Train services on multiple lines provide access at many points including Dorking, Box Hill & Westhumble, and Gomshall stations on services from London. Bus services connect towns and villages though car access is most convenient. The area offers diverse accommodation including country hotels, village pubs with rooms, B&Bs, and self-catering cottages. The Surrey Hills AONB office based in Dorking provides information and coordinates activities. The North Downs Way National Trail provides 45 miles of walking through the AONB along the chalk ridge with spectacular viewpoints. Box Hill offers the area's most popular destination with National Trust facilities including cafe, shop, and extensive trail network. Numerous other walks explore different landscapes from challenging escarpment climbs to easy riverside paths. Activities include walking, cycling on both road routes and bridleways, horse riding, and paragliding from hilltops. Facilities in towns including Dorking, Reigate, and Godalming include shops, restaurants, and outdoor equipment suppliers. Historic sites include Waverley Abbey ruins, Shere village, and various country estates. The area attracts heavy visitor pressure particularly on weekends, with Box Hill receiving over one million annual visitors. Mobile coverage is excellent throughout. The proximity to London makes the area ideal for day visits though also creates management challenges.

The Surrey Hills AONB Partnership leads conservation in this highly pressured landscape, working with landowners, local authorities, and community groups to protect special qualities while managing intense development and recreational pressures. Chalk grassland conservation addresses over 80% habitat loss since 1940, with restoration projects returning arable land to species-rich grassland and maintaining existing sites through appropriate grazing. This supports nationally important populations of rare butterflies including silver-spotted skipper and Adonis blue, plus chalk specialists like horseshoe vetch and early spider orchid. The partnership promotes conservation grazing schemes providing economic support for livestock farmers managing grassland. Ancient woodland protection forms a priority given Surrey's nationally important extent of ancient woodland, addressing threats from development, fragmentation, deer browsing, recreational pressure, and diseases including ash dieback and acute oak decline. Yew woodland on the North Downs represents a particularly rare habitat. Lowland heath conservation addresses the 90% decline since 1800, with restoration converting conifer plantations back to heath and maintaining existing sites through grazing and scrub control to support specialized species including woodlark, Dartford warbler, and sand lizards. Veteran tree conservation recognizes the area's exceptional concentration of ancient trees in hedgerows, parks, and wood pasture. The partnership works extensively on planning issues, reviewing thousands of applications annually and promoting sustainable development that respects landscape character. Green infrastructure projects connect habitats while providing accessible green space for local populations. Visitor management addresses erosion and disturbance at popular sites through path maintenance, site design, and education. The Surrey Hills has pioneered sustainable tourism and local produce marketing. Climate change adaptation includes supporting habitat connectivity, protecting water resources, and helping land managers adapt while maintaining conservation values.