Dzharylhatskyi

Dzharylhatskyi National Nature Park protects Dzharylhach Island, the largest island in the Black Sea, located off the coast of Kherson Oblast in southern Ukraine. ^[1] The island stretches approximately 42 kilometers in length but is only 100 meters to 4.6 kilometers wide, creating a long sandy barrier island that shelters Dzharylhach Bay from the open sea. ^[2] The park encompasses both the island and surrounding marine waters covering 10,000 hectares (100 km²), preserving one of the most pristine coastal landscapes in Ukraine with minimal human development. ^[1]

Dzharylhach Island is one of the most important bird breeding and staging sites in the northern Black Sea, with over 115 rare animal species recorded in the park. ^[1] Major breeding colonies include Sandwich terns, common terns, Mediterranean gulls, and avocets. The island is a critical stopover for migratory shorebirds, with autumn congregations of curlew sandpipers, dunlins, and red-breasted geese. ^[2] The surrounding waters support bottlenose dolphin populations and diverse fish communities. Mammals on the island include wild boars, deer, and mouflon. ^[3]

The island's vegetation is shaped by its exposed maritime conditions, with salt-tolerant and wind-resistant species dominating. The park protects over 500 vascular plant species in 72 families, a remarkable figure for a barrier island. ^[1] The primary dune ridges support marram grass, sea rocket, and sand couch grass. Behind the foredunes, more stable sand habitats host sea holly, sea lavender, and various halophytic species. The island's central areas support low scrub vegetation including sea buckthorn, wild rose, and blackthorn, interspersed with grassland patches. Salt marshes and mudflats along the sheltered inner shore support samphire, glasswort, and cord grass communities. A botanical reserve protects Chrysopogon gryllus, a grass that helps stabilise shifting sand. ^[2]

Dzharylhach Island is a Holocene barrier island formed through the accumulation of sand transported by longshore currents along the Black Sea coast. The island continues to evolve dynamically, with erosion on some sections and accretion on others driven by wave action and storm events. The sandy substrate is underlain at depth by Neogene clay and limestone formations. Shell deposits contribute significantly to the island's sediment composition, particularly along the inner shore where calm waters allow shell material to accumulate. The island's narrow, elongated shape reflects the predominant east-west alignment of coastal currents and wave energy in this section of the Black Sea. Coastal waters surrounding the island are very shallow, typically less than one meter deep. ^[1]

The island experiences a maritime-influenced steppe climate with hot, dry summers and mild winters moderated by the surrounding Black Sea waters. Summer temperatures average 24-26 degrees Celsius with intense solar radiation, while winter temperatures rarely drop below minus 5 degrees. Annual precipitation is low, approximately 350 millimeters, with most falling in autumn and winter. The island is exposed to frequent and sometimes severe winds from all directions, with winter storms capable of causing significant coastal erosion and overwash. Sea breezes moderate summer temperatures, making the island somewhat cooler than the adjacent mainland.

Dzharylhach Island has a long history of seasonal use by fishermen, salt harvesters, and livestock grazers, though it has never supported permanent settlement due to the lack of fresh water. ^[1] The island served as a base for Black Sea fishing communities, with temporary camps established during the fishing season. Ancient Greek geographers described the island as part of the Dromos Achilleos — the Race-course of Achilles — associating the feature with the hero Achilles. Archaeological finds include household items of the Neolithic era and burial mounds of the Sarmatians, Scythians, and Bronze Age peoples. During World War II, the island had strategic military significance and was the site of naval engagements.

Dzharylhatskyi National Nature Park was established in 2009 to protect the island's outstanding ecological values, particularly its importance for migratory and breeding waterbirds. ^[1] The designation followed decades of ornithological research documenting the island's significance as a bird sanctuary. A botanical reserve of national significance on the island had been protected since 1974. Prior to full park status, portions of the island were protected under local conservation designations. The park forms part of the Karkinitska and Dzharylgatska Bays Ramsar wetland site, a designation covering 147,556 hectares of the northern Black Sea first recognised in 1976. ^[2] International recognition through the Ramsar Convention reinforced the case for strong national protection. Since the Russian military occupation of Kherson Oblast beginning in March 2022, the island has suffered severe damage including mine contamination and a major fire in August 2023 that destroyed significant vegetation; in November 2023, Ukraine's Ministry of Environmental Protection and Natural Resources reported the park was completely destroyed by Russian armed aggression. ^[1]

The island's pristine beaches, stretching for dozens of kilometers with virtually no human development, are the primary attraction. Birdwatching excursions during migration seasons offer spectacular encounters with massive flocks of shorebirds and waterfowl. The more than four hundred small salt lakes scattered across the island provide unique landscapes and harbour specialist aquatic invertebrates. ^[1] Walking along the shell-covered inner shore reveals diverse marine life in the clear shallow waters. The island's remoteness and silence create an atmosphere of wilderness that is increasingly rare along the developed Black Sea coast.

Access to Dzharylhach Island is by boat from the town of Skadovsk, with the crossing taking approximately 30-45 minutes depending on conditions. No permanent structures exist on the island, and visitors must be self-sufficient with water, food, and sun protection. Guided excursions organised through the park or local tour operators are the recommended way to visit. Camping is permitted in designated areas during the summer season. The island has no fresh water source, making adequate supply planning essential. The best visiting period is from May through September, with birdwatching optimal during spring and autumn migration periods.

Conservation efforts focus on protecting nesting bird colonies from human disturbance and monitoring coastal erosion dynamics. Marine conservation addresses water quality and the health of seagrass beds in the surrounding Karkinitska and Dzharylgatska Bays Ramsar site. ^[1] The park enforces visitor limits during the breeding season to minimise disturbance to nesting terns and gulls. Climate change poses a long-term threat through rising sea levels and increasing storm intensity that could erode the low-lying island, which reaches a maximum elevation of only two meters above sea level. ^[2] Since the 2022 Russian invasion and subsequent occupation of Kherson Oblast, the park has been inaccessible for management and suffered catastrophic destruction; restoration will depend on deoccupation and demining. ^[3]