Wrangell-St. Elias

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is the largest unit in the National Park System, encompassing 13.2 million acres of massive glaciers, towering peaks, and vast wilderness in south-central Alaska. The park contains 9 of the 16 highest peaks in the United States, including Mount St. Elias at 18,008 feet, the second-highest peak in the country. Four major mountain ranges converge here, creating an unparalleled concentration of glaciers, including the Malaspina Glacier, larger than the state of Rhode Island. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with adjacent Canadian parks, Wrangell-St. Elias protects the largest internationally protected wilderness on Earth.

The park supports diverse wildlife across its varied habitats, from coastal rainforest to alpine tundra and glacial ice. Dall sheep are particularly abundant in the higher elevations, while mountain goats occupy the steepest terrain. Brown and black bears, moose, caribou, and wolves roam the valleys and lower slopes in healthy populations. Salmon spawn in numerous streams, attracting concentrations of bears and providing nutrients to the forest ecosystem. Marine waters along the coast support harbor seals, sea lions, sea otters, and migrating whales, while the interior hosts over 200 bird species during the summer breeding season.

Vegetation zones range from coastal Sitka spruce rainforest to interior boreal forest, alpine tundra, and permanent snow and ice. Coastal areas receive heavy precipitation supporting dense forests with lush understory of devil's club, blueberry, and ferns. Interior valleys feature white and black spruce, birch, and aspen forests transitioning to shrub tundra at higher elevations. The vast expanses of ice and rock at higher elevations support only the hardiest mosses, lichens, and alpine plants in scattered patches. Wildflower meadows bloom spectacularly in the brief summer, with entire hillsides turning purple, pink, and yellow.

The park sits at the collision zone of several tectonic plates, creating ongoing mountain building, frequent earthquakes, and active volcanism. Mount Wrangell, a massive shield volcano reaching 14,163 feet, remains active with fumaroles near its summit crater. The Saint Elias Mountains continue to rise rapidly due to tectonic compression, while glaciers erode them nearly as quickly. Over 150 named glaciers cover about 35% of the park, with the Bagley Icefield spanning over 120 miles across the mountains. Copper deposits mined historically at Kennecott reflect the complex geological history of the region.

Climate varies dramatically across the park, from maritime conditions on the coast to extreme continental conditions in the interior. Coastal areas receive up to 150 inches of precipitation annually, while interior valleys may receive only 10-15 inches. Temperatures range from winter lows of minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit in interior areas to relatively mild 30-40 degree winters near the coast. Summer temperatures are pleasant, typically ranging from 50 to 75 degrees in the valleys. Weather changes rapidly and unpredictably, with mountain conditions particularly severe and dangerous.

The Ahtna Athabascan people have inhabited the Copper River region for thousands of years, developing sophisticated cultures based on salmon fishing and hunting. Eyak, Tlingit, and Upper Tanana peoples also have ancestral connections to portions of the park. Russian explorers and traders arrived in the late 1700s, seeking sea otter pelts along the coast. The discovery of rich copper deposits led to the development of the Kennecott Mines, which operated from 1911 to 1938 and produced over 591,535 tons of copper ore. The historic mining town of Kennecott and the railway that served it remain as remarkable examples of early industrial development in Alaska's wilderness.

Wrangell-St. Elias was established as a National Monument by President Jimmy Carter in 1978 and redesignated as a National Park and Preserve in 1980. The park's creation was somewhat controversial, with mining interests and some local residents opposing restrictions on resource development. The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act balanced preservation with continued access, subsistence rights, and limited mining in the preserve portions. Today the park works to preserve both natural values and the historic mining heritage of Kennecott. Approximately 75,000 visitors explore the park annually, though vast areas remain essentially unvisited.

The historic Kennecott Mine and the ghost town of McCarthy provide the most accessible introduction to the park's history and landscape. Root Glacier Trail leads from Kennecott to the glacier surface, offering opportunities to walk on ice amid stunning mountain scenery. The Nabesna Road provides the only road access into the park interior, traversing 42 miles through boreal forest and tundra. Backcountry exploration is essentially unlimited, with climbers, backpackers, and river runners accessing remote areas by bush plane. Flightseeing tours offer views of the massive glaciers, towering peaks, and vast wilderness otherwise inaccessible to most visitors.

The park is accessible via the McCarthy Road, a 60-mile gravel route following the historic railroad grade to the park's most developed area. Visitors cross the Kennicott River on a footbridge to reach McCarthy and Kennecott, as no vehicles are permitted beyond the end of the road. Nabesna Road provides an alternate access point to the park's northern area, starting from the Tok Cutoff Highway. Visitor contact stations in Chitina and Kennecott provide information, and several private lodges offer accommodations in the McCarthy-Kennecott area. The nearest communities with full services are Glennallen and Valdez, each about 100 miles from the park.

Climate change is causing rapid glacier retreat throughout the park, with some glaciers losing hundreds of feet of thickness in recent decades. The park monitors glacier dynamics, permafrost conditions, and ecosystem changes to document these transformations. Abandoned mine sites require ongoing attention for hazardous materials and unstable structures. Balancing historic preservation at Kennecott with natural resource protection presents ongoing management challenges. Subsistence activities continue in preserve areas, maintaining traditional practices while managing for healthy wildlife populations.