
Grand Teton
United States
About
Grand Teton National Park encompasses 309,994 acres (484 square miles) in northwestern Wyoming, protecting the dramatic Teton Range and the valley of Jackson Hole. Established on February 26, 1929, the park was significantly expanded in 1950 when Jackson Hole National Monument merged with the original park boundaries, creating the protected landscape visitors experience today. The park lies approximately 10 miles south of Yellowstone National Park, with the nearest major towns being Jackson to the south and Moran to the east.
The Teton Range dominates the park's landscape, rising abruptly from the valley floor without foothills in one of North America's most striking geological displays. Grand Teton, the range's highest peak, towers at 13,770 feet (4,197 meters) above sea level, while the Jackson Hole valley below averages 6,800 feet (2,070 meters) in elevation, creating a vertical relief of nearly 7,000 feet. This dramatic elevation gradient supports diverse ecosystems ranging from sagebrush flats and riparian corridors along the Snake River to alpine zones near glaciated summits, with over a dozen pristine mountain lakes nestled among the peaks.
Grand Teton National Park forms a critical component of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the largest intact temperate ecosystems on Earth. The park protects vital habitat for iconic North American wildlife including grizzly bears, gray wolves, moose, elk, bison, and pronghorn, while serving as an essential corridor for species migrations across the region. Communities have inhabited the Jackson Hole valley for over 11,000 years, and the park preserves significant cultural resources alongside its natural treasures.
The park welcomes over three million visitors annually who come to experience world-class mountaineering, hiking, wildlife viewing, and scenic beauty. The Teton Range's distinctive profile, visible for miles across Wyoming and Idaho, has become one of America's most recognizable mountain landscapes, celebrated in art, photography, and conservation history.
Wildlife Ecosystems
Grand Teton National Park (310,000 acres) anchors the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (20 million acres) [1]. The park supports over 300 bird species, 61 mammal species, 13+ fish species, 6 amphibian species, and 4 reptile species.
LARGE MAMMALS: Grizzly bears: ~800 in GYE as of 2024, recovered from 135 in 1975, threatened [2]. Black bears: 500-600 in GY area, distinguished by straighter face and 1.5-inch claws [3]. Wolves: Reintroduced 1995, first pack denned 1999 with first litter in 70+ years; 49 wolves in 5 packs as of 2024, 500 in GYE [4]. Mountain lions hunt deer, elk, porcupine.
Moose: 400-500 in Jackson Hole at Willow Flats, Oxbow Bend, Christian Pond, Moose-Wilson Road; feed on willow and aquatic plants [5]. Elk: ~9,000 migrate spring from National Elk Refuge across Gros Ventre River; descend in autumn [6]. Bison: 600-666 as of early 2025, escaped 1968, weigh to 2,000 lbs, concentrate at Antelope Flats/Mormon Row, 1,000+ winter on Elk Refuge [7]. Pronghorn: 300-400 travel up to 200 miles on 6,000-year-old migration (longest ungulate migration in lower 48 states), reach 55 mph [8]. Bighorn sheep: ~178 native in Teton Range, permanently isolated from migration routes, endure year-round severe winters [9].
BIRDS (300+ species): Trumpeter swans: 6'2"-8'2" wingspan, monogamous, found at Oxbow Bend, Swan Lake, Willow Flats, Flat Creek [10]. Bald eagles: recovered from endangered status, 13 pairs fledged 13 eaglets in 2018 [2]. Golden eagles soar mountains; ospreys fish unique parallel-position style. Seasonal closures April 1–September 1 within 330 feet of osprey, trumpeter swan, peregrine falcon, great blue heron nests; half-mile no-stopping zones protect bald eagle nests [11]. Calliope hummingbird: smallest North American bird (<0.1 oz). Western tanager: males display red/orange/yellow/black. Greater sage grouse: males spread tails 280° producing popping sounds.
AQUATIC LIFE: 13 native fish species: Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat (red slash under jaw, sole indigenous trout), plus yellowstone cutthroat, mountain whitefish, utah sucker, longnose dace, redside shiner, paiute sculpin, speckled dace, mountain sucker, mottled sculpin, utah chub, green sucker, leatherside chub [12]. Non-native rainbow, brook, lake, brown trout threaten natives. Amphibians (6): columbia spotted frog, boreal chorus frog, tiger salamander, boreal toad, northern leopard frog, introduced bullfrog. Reptiles (4): wandering garter snake, valley garter snake, rubber boa, northern sagebrush lizard. Beavers create wetland habitat; river otters feed on fish, frogs, crayfish, observable at Oxbow Bend at dawn/dusk.
THREATENED/ENDANGERED SPECIES: Canada lynx: large fur-covered feet enabling deep snow travel, hunts snowshoe hares, threatened [2]. Western glacier stonefly: found only in cold glacier meltwater, threatened by glacier recession due to climate change. Yellow-billed cuckoo: rare western species, threatened. Whitebark pine: nutrient-rich nuts essential for grizzly pre-hibernation feeding; 2018 survey: 40% dead, 30% beetle-attacked, 57% blister rust-infected, 15% producing cones [2]. Mountain goats: native species introduced to Snake River Range, migrated to Tetons 1960s-1970s, displaced native bighorn 95%, carried lethal diseases; park removed 121 goats (2019-2021) via hunting/culling, reducing population to 10-20 as of March 2024 [13].
WILDLIFE VIEWING: Oxbow Bend (1 mile east Jackson Lake Junction): moose, beavers, eagles, otters [14]. Mormon Row/Antelope Flats: bison, pronghorn. Snake River: elk, bison, eagles. Cascade Canyon: mule deer, ground squirrels, pikas, songbirds. Blacktail Pond: elk, waterfowl. Moose-Wilson Road: moose, black bears, great grey owls. Small mammals: yellow-bellied marmots, pikas (talus piles), uinta ground squirrels, least chipmunks, golden-mantled ground squirrels. Coyotes: most frequent predators, hunt year-round. Peak viewing during cooler parts of day, spring-fall. Maintain 100 yards from bears/wolves, 25 yards from other wildlife [14]. Wildlife Brigade (established 2007) manages human-wildlife safety.
Flora Ecosystems
Grand Teton National Park supports over 1,000 vascular plant species within its 6,320-13,770 feet elevation range [1], contributing to the Greater Yellowstone region's over 1,500 native plant varieties [2]. Elevation, soil, moisture, and slope create distinct zones from drought-tolerant sagebrush steppe to alpine species.
The sagebrush steppe dominates 6,400-7,000 feet elevations with shallow sandy/cobble soils [3]. Big sagebrush, the dominant species with long taproots and lateral roots that catch summer rain, supports wildflowers including arrowleaf balsamroot, silky lupine (late May), sagebrush buttercup (March on south-facing slopes), Wyoming state flower Indian paintbrush, antelope bitterbrush, low sagebrush, and rabbitbrush [3]. Park restoration replaced approximately 4,500 acres of non-native grassland with native sagebrush steppe using seed mixes [4].
Riparian corridors along the Snake River feature narrowleaf cottonwood (light green spring, dark summer, golden autumn) and over 20 willow species [5]. Quaking aspen displays brilliant yellow and orange fall colors with underground root connections enabling simultaneous stand color changes, while balsam poplar thrives in fluctuating water areas [6]. Wet meadows support grasses, sedges, and wildflowers. Aquatic plants include yellow pondlily (June-July blooms), water smartweed, yellow monkey flower with red spots, and Lewis monkey flower with reddish petals and yellow throat [6]. These wetlands support over 60 mammal species and 300 bird species.
Forest communities establish on glacial moraines. The montane zone (6,000-7,000 feet) features quaking aspen, cottonwood, and willow, while the subalpine forest (7,000-10,000 feet) is dominated by conifers [7]. Lodgepole pine occupies fire-affected areas with serotinous cones that open when heated, releasing seeds onto nutrient-rich post-fire soil [8]. Spruce-fir forests of blue spruce, Engelmann spruce, Douglas fir, and subalpine fir represent later successional stages requiring 300-400 years to develop following disturbance [9]. Whitebark and limber pine at higher elevations produce nuts feeding birds, mammals, and grizzly bears [8]. Whitebark pine dominates above 8,500 feet as the highest elevation tree, requires 50 years to reach cone-bearing maturity, and regulates snow/ice melt [10]. These trees face threats from white pine blister rust and mountain pine beetles whose populations expanded to higher elevations due to climate warming [11].
The alpine zone above treeline (approximately 10,000 feet) presents harsh conditions: scant soil, intense radiation, short growing season, extreme temperature fluctuations, heavy snow, and fierce winds (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Teton_National_Park, https://www.discovergrandteton.org/wild-communities/alpine/). Plants grow low in mats and cushions. The alpine forget-me-not, the park's official flower, blooms 7,500-10,000 feet with azure blue petals and yellow centers [12]. Alpine sunflower requires 12-15 years before first flowering, then dies [12]. Moss campion grows less than an inch high, cushion phlox forms low mats in white/lilac/pink, alpine townsendia displays purple and yellow flowers, and alpine laurel covers wet meadows with bright pink blooms [12]. Sky pilot produces blue tubular flowers.
Over 900 wildflower species bloom May-September despite only 60 frost-free days annually in Jackson Hole (https://www.nps.gov/grte/learn/nature/wildflowers.htm, https://nationalparksdata.com/wildflowers-of-grand-teton-national-park/). Valley species include skyrocket gilia, larkspur, and Indian paintbrush in reds, oranges, blues, and purples [13]. Forest species include fireweed with purple/pink blossoms, columbine, monkshood, and the rare calypso orchid requiring specific mycorrhizal relationships [13]. Subalpine meadows display lupine with blue, purple, and pink spikes, purple aster, and Indian paintbrush varieties [14]. Peak blooming times vary by elevation. Guidelines emphasize viewing without picking to preserve habitat [13].
Whitebark pine decline from white pine blister rust, mountain pine beetles, and climate change threatens this species and wildlife depending on its nuts, particularly grizzly bears (https://www.nationalparkstraveler.org/2008/08/mountain-pine-beetles-chewing-grand-teton-national-park-forests, https://www.gtnpf.org/initiative/whitebark-pine-conservation/). Loss affects watershed hydrology as these trees regulate snowmelt [11]. Park restoration projects replace thousands of acres of non-native grassland with native sagebrush steppe and monitor whitebark pine health. The rare calypso orchid depends on specific environmental conditions and mycorrhizal fungi. Plant communities stabilize soils, create wildlife habitat, provide nutrients and oxygen, and offer visitor inspiration.
Geology
Grand Teton National Park preserves a geologically dramatic landscape where fault-block mountains rise over 7,000 feet above the valley floor. The Teton Range formed through differential crustal movement along the Teton fault, a normal fault extending 40+ miles that has generated topographic relief exceeding 6,900 feet [1]. The range spans approximately 40 miles in length, 7-9 miles in width, with twelve peaks exceeding 12,000 feet elevation, and Grand Teton rising to 13,775 feet [1].
The bedrock consists of Archean metamorphic and igneous rocks dating 2.7 to 2.5 billion years ago, making them among North America's oldest exposed rocks [2]. Approximately 2.7 billion years ago, seafloor sediments buried to 18-20 miles depth were subjected to temperatures approaching 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit and transformed into metamorphic gneiss and schist with alternating light and dark mineral bands containing quartz, feldspar, biotite, and hornblende [3]. Around 2.5 billion years ago, magma crystallized slowly as coarse-grained granite and pegmatite with crystals measuring several inches to over a foot in diameter, forming the highest peaks including Grand Teton and Mount Owen [2]. Approximately 775 million years ago, iron-rich basaltic magma filled vertical cracks to form fine-grained diabase dikes, with a spectacular 150-foot-wide black diabase dike visible on Mount Moran [2].
Modern topography began forming between 13 and 9 million years ago during the Miocene epoch [2]. The Teton fault dips steeply at 45-75 degrees with the western block moving upward while the eastern block subsided [4]. Using the Cambrian Flathead Sandstone as a marker bed—at 6,000 feet above sea level on Mount Moran but 24,000 feet below the valley floor—the total vertical offset approaches 30,000 feet [5]. The average slip rate is 1.1-1.3 millimeters per year, with surface displacement up to 10 feet per large earthquake [2]. Paleoseismological studies identify seven major fault ruptures over 14,000 years, with the three most recent occurring approximately 5,900, 8,000, and 10,000 years ago [3]. The fault remains capable of magnitude 7.0-7.5 earthquakes.
Multiple Pleistocene glaciation episodes over the past 2 million years profoundly reshaped the landscape [2]. During major advances, ice from three directions converged in Jackson Hole, with a massive ice sheet filling the valley to 1,000-2,000 feet depth while mountain glaciers occupied high valleys [6]. Two well-documented advances: Bull Lake glaciation reached maximum extent 150,000-140,000 years ago, burying Jackson Hole under 1,500+ feet of ice [7]; Pinedale glaciation advanced 50,000-14,000 years ago with maximum positions dated 18,800-16,500 years before present using cosmogenic beryllium-10 dating [7]. Pinedale glaciers carved U-shaped valleys including Cascade Canyon, Glacier Gulch, Death Canyon, and Garnet Canyon, excavated cirques containing Amphitheater Lake and Lake Solitude, and sculpted Cathedral Group peaks into pyramidal forms [2]. Terminal moraines enclosing Jenny Lake yield cosmogenic exposure ages of 14,600 and 13,500 years before present [7].
Jackson Lake occupies a depression formed through Pinedale glaciation (50,000-14,000 years ago) by glaciers carving and deepening the valley floor while depositing terminal moraines [2]. The basin also reflects ongoing tectonic subsidence of Jackson Hole along the Teton fault, creating accommodation space for the lake [8]. The Snake River's drainage pattern, with Fish Creek at higher elevation, reflects westward tilting of the valley floor toward the fault zone [6].
The Teton Range continues experiencing active geological processes. Small earthquakes record ongoing stress along the Teton fault as mountains rise and valley subsides at rates averaging 1 foot of vertical separation every 300-400 years [6]. Surveys as of the 1920s identified eleven active glaciers, though most have retreated over the past century responding to climate warming [2]. The Teton Glacier moves nearly 30 feet per year and contains abundant rock debris, demonstrating ongoing glacial erosion [6]. Additional erosional processes include frost wedging at high elevations, gravitational mass movements building talus slopes, rock avalanches and debris flows triggered by cloudbursts with 100+ events documented during summer 1941 alone, and stream erosion [6].
Grand Teton's geological significance lies in its value as a natural laboratory for understanding fault-block mountain formation, ancient crustal evolution, glacial geomorphology, and active tectonics [1]. The park's rock record spans 2.7 billion years from the Archean eon through Paleozoic and Mesozoic sedimentary deposits preserving fossils of trilobites, stromatolites, corals, and marine shells documenting ancient sea level fluctuations, to Quaternary glacial and alluvial sediments recording the last 2 million years of climate change [2]. This geological diversity compressed into a small area makes the Tetons a premier destination for research and education, exemplifying the "seesaw conflict" between constructive tectonic forces elevating mountains and destructive erosional processes wearing them down [6]. Preservation of this complete geological story from Precambrian basement rocks through active processes makes Grand Teton invaluable for understanding how Earth's crust deforms, mountains rise and erode, and landscapes evolve through integrated effects of tectonic, climatic, and surficial processes [1].
Climate And Weather
Grand Teton has a humid continental climate (Köppen Dfb) with alpine characteristics [1]. Elevation ranges from 6,800 feet (Jackson Hole valley) to 13,775 feet (Grand Teton summit)—a 7,000+ foot span creating pronounced climatic variations and microclimates [2]. Orographic effects generate afternoon thunderstorms and distinct precipitation zones.
Annual temperatures range 6°F to 80°F (rarely below -13°F or above 87°F) [3]. Winter (December-February): average highs 28°F, lows 2°F [4]. January is coldest at 15.5°F mean with 4.8°F average lows [5]. Summer: July averages 61.5°F mean with 73.4°F highs; overnight lows reach upper 30s [5]. April spans 22°F-49°F; September highs in upper 60s declining to upper 30s by November (~23 days below freezing) [4].
Moran Junction (6,749 ft) recorded -63°F on February 9, 1933 (Wyoming state record) [6] and 93°F on July 5, 2007 [7]. Moose station hit 95°F in 2020 (previous record 92°F in 2013; records since 1959) [8]. Jackson Hole extremes: -52°F (December 20, 1924) and 101°F (July 17, 1934)—150°F+ range [5].
Moran Junction annual precipitation averages 23.7 inches (1943-2022) with significant year-to-year variation [9]. Wettest: November-January (Pacific storms); driest: July-August (despite afternoon thunderstorms) [9]. Monthly: May 1.80", June 1.63", July 0.94", August 1.24", December 1.52" (mostly snow) [5]. Teton Range ranks among Greater Yellowstone's wettest areas; additional monitoring stations needed [10].
Moose station records ~14 feet (168") annual snowfall, first substantial snows around November 1st [4]. Climate models indicate 8+ feet coat the park during winter [9]. Record monthly: February 2019 (55"), January 1969 (56"), March 2024 (33.9") [5]. Snow cover extends to late May/early June in valleys, late July at high elevations [4]. Snow water equivalent varies dramatically: Phillips Bench (32.2") vs. Grand Targhee (54.6%) at similar elevations [11].
Temperature decreases ~4°F per 1,000 feet elevation (moist adiabatic lapse 3.3°F/1,000 ft; dry 5.4°F/1,000 ft) [12]. Higher elevations are 10-15°F cooler than valleys [4]. Grand Teton summit: 0.58 atmospheres pressure at 40°F (half sea level) [12]. Winter inversions trap cold Jackson Hole air, creating 40°F valley-to-peak differentials [12]. Summer inversions occur overnight/early morning with smaller spreads, dissipating after sunrise [12].
Southwest storm systems track up Snake River Plain and encounter the Teton Range; some reach Yellowstone Plateau, others dissipate or miss Jackson Hole [12]. Summer afternoon orographic lifting generates common thunderstorms [4]. Mountains generate localized weather; forecast models underestimate winds at exposed locations like Lower Saddle [12]. Summer microbursts recorded at 52-56 mph; reliable mountain forecasts limited to ~6 hours during moderate instability [12].
June-August: 70-80°F days, 40-50°F nights, afternoon thundershowers [13]. September optimal: upper 60s temps, golden aspen, reduced crowds [13]. December-March: daytime 20s-40s°F, extremely cold nights, sunny between storms [13]. April: 40s°F highs, 20s°F lows, ~10" snow [13]. May: 61°F days, 31°F nights [13]. November-April: roads/facilities closed due to harsh below-freezing weather; winter offers skiing, snowshoeing, and solitude [14].
Human History
The Grand Teton region has 11,000 years of human history. Paleo-Indians entered Jackson Hole approximately 11,000 years ago as glaciers retreated, crafting obsidian implements and hunting Ice Age megafauna [1]. Between 8,000 and 1,500 years ago, indigenous peoples established seasonal occupation patterns, gathering plants and hunting with the atlatl. Excavations uncovered stone-lined roasting pits for camas root, fire pits, and tools. Around 1,500 to 500 years ago, the bow and arrow replaced the atlatl. Craftspeople manufactured clay and soapstone bowls [1].
By the early nineteenth century, Shoshone, Bannock, Blackfoot, Crow, Flathead, Gros Ventre, and Nez Perce peoples utilized Jackson Hole seasonally [2]. The Shoshone, known as Tukudika or "Sheep-eaters," maintained strong high-country connections, subsisting primarily on bighorn sheep supplemented by over fifty native plant species: berries, mountain sorrel, wild strawberries, cattails, and dandelion roots [3]. Tukudika developed specialized tanning and furring skills, producing sheepskin robes and bows from mountain sheep horns. Wickiups dotted summer encampments above 10,000 feet.
The Teton Range held spiritual significance. Stone enclosures on high peaks, including "The Enclosure" on the Grand Teton above 13,000 feet, likely hosted Shoshone vision quests. Jenny Lake served as a Sun Dance site. Soapstone bowls indicate Tukudika material culture use from 1,000 to 3,000 years or more. The Shoshone used "teewinot" (many pinnacles) for the range.
In 1868, the Fort Bridger Treaty Council established the Wind River Indian Reservation, relocating Shoshone from the Teton and Yellowstone regions to lands 100 miles southeast of Jackson Hole [2]. This restricted the Eastern Shoshone Nation to a fraction of their former 44 million acres. Chief Washakie selected the reservation lands.
John Colter likely became the first non-indigenous person to see the Tetons, passing through Jackson Hole winter 1807-1808 after being sent by Manuel Lisa to recruit trading partners. Colter's journey covered more than 500 miles [4]. The first organized trapping expedition entered Jackson Hole in 1810-1811 led by Andrew Henry with John Hoback, Edward Robinson, and Jacob Reznor.
The fur trade peaked during the 1820s-1830s. In 1825, General William Ashley initiated the annual mountain rendezvous system at Henry's Fork of the Green River [5]. After purchasing Ashley's interests in 1826, Jedediah Smith, David E. Jackson, and William Sublette dominated operations, with Jackson overseeing trapping 1826-1830. Notable mountain men included Jim Bridger, Thomas Fitzpatrick, and Jim Beckwourth. Around 1829, Sublette encountered Jackson near present-day Jackson Lake; Sublette suggested naming the valley "Jackson's Hole"—frontier vernacular for a mountain valley surrounded by high peaks [5]. French trappers called the range "les trois tétons" (the three breasts), later shortened to the Tetons.
By 1840, the fur trade collapsed due to changing European fashion preferences, overtrapping, and new accessible regions. From mid-1840s until 1860, Jackson Hole remained largely unsettled except for small indigenous populations.
Permanent agricultural settlement began in 1884 when John Holland, John Carnes, and Millie Sorelle established the valley's first homesteads [6]. These arrived more than two decades after the 1862 Homestead Act. Between 1900-1920, approximately 400 homestead claims were filed. J.P. Cunningham and Margaret built their cabin south of Spread Creek in 1886 using Appalachian "double-pen"/"dog trot" architecture. In 1894, William Menor established his homestead and ferry crossing on the Snake River, operating until 1927. Mormon families settled Mormon Row beginning in 1910.
Jackson Hole's scenery, fishing, hunting, and summer weather attracted paying visitors [6]. In 1908, Maxwell Struthers Burt and Louis Joy established the JY Ranch, hosting six guests initially. Burt split from Joy in 1911 and partnered with Dr. Horace Carncross to establish the Bar BC Dude Ranch in 1912. White Grass Ranch began hosting guests in 1919 and operated until 1985. During the 1920s-1930s heyday, dude ranches offered horseback riding, fishing, hunting, and hiking to wealthy Eastern and Midwestern clients.
Ferdinand Hayden's 1872 expedition with photographer William Henry Jackson revealed the Tetons' beauty to Eastern audiences [7]. President Grover Cleveland established the 829,440-acre Teton Forest Reserve in 1897; President Theodore Roosevelt expanded it to 1,991,200 acres as Teton National Forest in 1908. An 1919 House bill to create a national park passed but was defeated in the Senate by Idaho Senator John Nugent, opposed due to sheep ranching interests.
Philanthropist John D. Rockefeller Jr. visited Jackson Hole in 1926 with Yellowstone superintendent Horace Albright. Disturbed by commercial development, Rockefeller agreed in 1927 to purchase up to 114,170 acres for $1,397,000 [7]. The Snake River Land Company, with banker Robert Miller as intermediary, conducted the secret acquisition. When revealed in 1930, local residents accused the Park Service of coercion; Wyoming Senator Robert Carey opposed expansion legislation.
President Calvin Coolidge signed legislation establishing Grand Teton National Park on February 26, 1929, though the original 96,000 acres excluded Rockefeller's holdings [7]. Congressional resistance persisted. Frustrated, Rockefeller ultimatummed Secretary of the Interior Harold Ickes in 1942: if the government would not accept his lands, he would sell 35,000 acres on the open market. President Franklin D. Roosevelt responded by issuing an executive order in 1943 establishing the 221,000-acre Jackson Hole National Monument. This sparked fierce resistance: Governor Lester Hunt threatened removing federal officials, actor Wallace Beery joined ranchers including future Governor Cliff Hansen trailing cattle across the monument, and columnist Westbrook Pegler compared Roosevelt's action to Hitler's annexation of Austria. Congress passed abolition bills three times; Roosevelt vetoed the first and others stalled in committee; Wyoming's legal challenge was dismissed on technicality.
On September 14, 1950, President Harry Truman signed legislation merging Jackson Hole National Monument with Grand Teton National Park, resolving the thirty-one-year dispute [7]. The compromise included tax revenue compensation for Teton County and protection of existing grazing rights.
Park History
Grand Teton National Park's creation involved three decades of political conflict and preservation efforts. President Calvin Coolidge signed legislation on February 26, 1929, creating the original park at 96,000 acres including the Teton Range and six glacial lakes: Phelps, Taggart, Bradley, Jenny, Leigh, and Jackson [1]. This excluded Jackson Hole valley, leading to decades of controversy until 1950 when the park expanded to 310,000 acres [2].
Beginning in the early 1920s, Horace Albright, superintendent of Yellowstone from 1919-1929, led preservation efforts [3]. In 1923, Albright and Jackson Hole dude ranch operators met to discuss protection strategies, but local residents opposed federal control over grazing rights and private property [1].
The pivotal moment came in 1926 when Albright showed industrialist John D. Rockefeller Jr. the valley, inspiring him to fund a covert land acquisition program [4]. In February 1927, Rockefeller established the Snake River Land Company as a shell corporation to conceal his involvement [5]. Between 1927 and the early 1930s, the company acquired over 35,000 acres at an average cost of $39.61 per acre, totaling approximately $1.4 million [5].
The secret unraveled in 1930, triggering controversy among Wyoming residents who felt deceived [5]. In 1932, Wyoming senators launched a Senate investigation into the land acquisitions. Throughout the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps cleared dead trees from Jackson Lake, constructed trails, and improved facilities at Moose [6].
By 1943, with Congressional expansion efforts stalled, President Franklin D. Roosevelt acted unilaterally. On March 15, 1943, Roosevelt signed Presidential Proclamation 2578 invoking the Antiquities Act of 1906 to establish Jackson Hole National Monument, encompassing 221,610 acres [7]. Wyoming Senator Edward Robertson condemned the action, and Representative Frank A. Barrett introduced House Resolution 2241 on March 19, 1943, to abolish the monument [8].
In May 1943, local ranchers led by actor Wallace Beery staged an armed cattle drive with 550 head across monument lands without permits [9], a protest that attracted national media attention and included future Wyoming Governor Clifford Hansen [8]. Congress passed Barrett's bill, but Roosevelt vetoed it.
After seven years of standoff, compromise emerged. On September 14, 1950, President Harry S. Truman signed Public Law 81-787, merging the 1929 park, Jackson Hole National Monument, and Rockefeller's lands into the modern 310,000-acre Grand Teton National Park [10]. The legislation included five compromises: protection of existing grazing rights, federal tax revenue reimbursement to Teton County, elk hunting allowance, prohibition against future presidential monument proclamations in Wyoming without Congressional consent, and guaranteed access across park lands for private property owners. Within the first year, 587,000 visitors came to the enlarged park [11].
Infrastructure development expanded in the 1950s-1960s. Jackson Lake Lodge opened in 1955, designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood with modernist architecture and designated a National Historic Landmark in 2003 [12]. Colter Bay Village opened in 1957 with capacity for 3,000 guests in 166 relocated cabins and tent sites [12]. The 1956 Colter Bay visitor center and 1958 Moose visitor center pioneered Mission 66's visitor center concept [12].
Visitation has grown exponentially. By 2015, annual recreation visits surpassed 3 million for the first time, increasing 23 percent through 2021 [13]. In 2021, Grand Teton experienced 3,885,230 recreation visits, surpassing the 2018 record by 11 percent, with July 2021 alone bringing 800,000 visitors [13]. Summer 2021 trail usage was 29 percent higher than 2019 and 49 percent higher than 2017. As of 2023, the park ranked seventh among the top ten most-visited national parks with 3,417,106 visits [14]. In 2024, the park recorded 3,628,222 visits, the second busiest year on record [15].
In 2007, the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center opened in Moose, replacing the 1958 facility [16]. The 22,000-square-foot facility cost $21.6 million, funded by an $8 million congressional appropriation and $13.6 million in private donations, including a $500,000 Kresge Foundation challenge grant that enabled an additional $3.2 million for a theater and auditorium. In November 2007, the Rockefeller family transferred the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve, donating 1,106 acres valued at $160 million at Phelps Lake's southern end [17]. Laurance Rockefeller initiated the donation process in 2001; the preserve opened to the public in 2008, complementing an earlier 1990s transfer of approximately 2,000 acres from the JY Ranch.
In December 2024, the National Park Service purchased the 640-acre Kelly Parcel for $100 million after twenty years of acquisition efforts, protecting the park's largest remaining undeveloped private inholding [2]. While not individually designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Grand Teton forms the southern anchor of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem with Yellowstone, which received World Heritage designation in 1978. Together, they comprise the core of the Yellowstone-Grand Teton Biosphere Reserve recognized under UNESCO's Man and Biosphere Programme, encompassing 1,067,380 hectares at the heart of the 20-million-acre Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem [18]. As Grand Teton approaches its centennial in 2029, managers continue balancing record visitation with the fundamental mandate to preserve the landscape [13].
Major Trails And Attractions
Grand Teton National Park offers 200+ miles of hiking trails [1] with access to alpine lakes, canyons, and viewpoints of the Teton Range. Major attractions include Jenny Lake, Jackson Lake, Mormon Row, Menor's Ferry, and the Snake River. Valley trails are snow-free by mid-June; mountain trails by late July [1]. Popular trailheads (Jenny Lake, String/Leigh Lakes, Lupine Meadows, Death Canyon, Granite Canyon) fill early in summer/fall; early arrivals required.
Jenny Lake (nearly 2,000 acres) features Hidden Falls (100-foot waterfall, 0.5 miles easy from west shore dock) and Inspiration Point (0.5 miles further) [2]. Jenny Lake Boating Company shuttle eliminates 2-mile hike to Cascade Canyon, running every 10-15 minutes; $12-20 round-trip (children under 2 and adults 80+ free, as of September 2024) [3]. Company closed for 2025 season, planned reopening mid-May 2026; 2024 season ran June 4-September 8 [4]. Jenny Lake Visitor Center (Harrison Crandall Studio, built 1920s, renovated 2019) provides permits and ranger assistance [5].
Paintbrush Canyon-Cascade Canyon Loop: 19.9 miles, 4,480 ft elevation gain, very strenuous, 9% average slope [6]. Ascends to 10,700-ft Paintbrush Divide (snow until July). Descends to Lake Solitude, then Cascade Canyon. Most hikers allocate 11-14 hours as day hike or split into 2-3 day backpacking trip [6]. Cascade Canyon Trail: 6.8 miles one-way from Jenny Lake, moderate to strenuous [7].
From Lupine Meadows Trailhead: Garnet Canyon (strenuous, 8.2-9.4 mi round trip, 2,430-2,560 ft gain), Amphitheater Lake (10.1 mi round trip, 3,001 ft gain), Delta Lake (8.1 mi, 2,300 ft gain, 1.5 mi unmaintained trail, boulder fields, 9,000 ft elevation, turquoise glacial lake) [8]. Lupine Meadows Trailhead fills within one hour of sunrise June-October [9].
Teton Crest Trail: 35-45 miles, 4-6 days [10]. Popular route: 39.5 miles from Highway 22 to String Lake, 9,000 ft gain. Alternative starts: Granite Canyon (37.5 mi, 8,500 ft gain), Teton Village Gondola (34.5 mi, 6,800 ft gain) [10]. Premium campsites: Death Canyon Shelf, Marion Lake, North Fork Cascade Canyon, Alaska Basin, Holly Lake, Kit Lake. Groups 1-6 apply for any zone; 7-12 use designated group sites; no permit for Jedediah Smith Wilderness [10]. Backcountry permits (effective January 10, 2024): $20 permit + $7 per person/night; 1/3 advance Jan 7, 2025, 8am MST via Recreation.gov; 2/3 walk-up day before trip [11].
Grand Teton (13,770 ft): 7-mile approach, 7,043 ft climb [12]. Owen-Spalding Route (standard): 5.4 difficulty, Grade II, technical final 600 ft [13]. Exum Ridge Route (famous): 5.5 difficulty (5.7 lower sections), 800 ft additional, 2,700 ft gain from high camp [13]. Requires rappelling skills; no day permits needed, but overnight trips need backcountry permits from Jenny Lake Ranger Station June-September [14].
Jackson Lake (largest): 15 x 7 miles, 39-foot dam, no horsepower restrictions [15]. String Lake: best swimming (shallow, sandy bottom, ~60°F August), floats/SUP/kayaking [16]. Canoe to String Lake, portage 150 yards to Leigh Lake (less crowded, backcountry campsites water-accessible) [17]. Colter Bay Marina: kayak/canoe/motorboat rentals, lake cruises, fishing (Wyoming license required) [18].
Menor's Ferry Historic District: William D. Menor's 1894 homestead with cabin and store; reconstructed ferry until 1927 bridge replacement [19]. Ferry operated by Menor until 1918, then Maud Noble until 1927; rides 10am-2pm daily summer with ranger talks [19]. Maud Noble hosted July 26, 1923 meeting with Yellowstone Superintendent Horace Albright planning John D. Rockefeller Jr.'s land purchases (completed by 1953) [19]. Mormon Row: 27 homesteads from 1890s east of Blacktail Butte; iconic Moulton Barns frame Teton peaks [20]. Chapel of Transfiguration (built 1925): frames Cathedral Group through altar window [19].
Grand Teton Loop: 42 miles, 2.5-3 hours, combines Teton Park Road and US 89/191 [21]. Teton Park Road (20 miles, open May 1-October 31) provides access to Jenny Lake Scenic Drive, Moose-Wilson Road, Signal Mountain Road [22]. Signal Mountain Road: 5 miles, 1,000 ft elevation, no trailers/RVs, closes winter [23]. Safety: Black and grizzly bears; 6 reported attacks since 1994, none fatal [24]. Hikers travel groups of 3+, make noise, carry bear spray (300 ft bear distance, 25 yard wildlife distance) [24]. Elevation 6,320-13,770 ft risks dehydration, sunburn, altitude sickness; drink several quarts water/day [25]. Lightning danger summer afternoons; start early, avoid summits/trees in storms [25]. Backcountry campers carry approved bear canisters (free checkout with permits) [26].
Visitor Facilities And Travel
Grand Teton National Park accommodates over three million annual visitors, open 24 hours daily year-round, with most services May-September [1].
ENTRANCE FEES (as of June 2018, updated 2025): $35 private vehicle (7-day), $30 motorcycle, $20 person (foot/bicycle), children under 16 free with vehicle pass, $70 annual pass, $80 America the Beautiful pass, $20 senior annual (age 62+), $80 lifetime senior, free passes for military/permanent disabilities/4th-grade students [2]. Free entrance days: MLK Jr. Day (Jan 20), Juneteenth (June 19), Veterans Day (Nov 11).
VISITOR CENTERS (as of 2025): Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center (Moose): May 1-Oct 31. Exhibits, Indigenous artifacts, 3D relief map, documentaries, trail info, permits, retail [3]. Colter Bay: May 9-Oct 1. Jenny Lake: May 14-Sept 24. Laurance S. Rockefeller: seasonal. Jenny Lake Ranger Station: June 7-Sept 7 (mountaineering permits). Flagg Ranch: closed 2025. All accessible with TTY/TDD 307-739-3301 [4].
LODGING: Jackson Lake Lodge (385 rooms): May 16-Oct 5. 1955 National Historic Landmark, 60-foot picture windows. Mural Room (7:00-9:30a breakfast, 11:30a-1:30p lunch, 5:00-9:00p dinner), Pioneer Grill, Blue Heron Lounge, pool, WiFi, USB charging, no TV/AC [5].
Jenny Lake Lodge: June 1-early October (CLOSED 2025). Five-course dinners $140/person, breakfasts $40/person, horseback riding, bicycles included [6].
Signal Mountain Lodge: May 9-Oct 10. 1930s log to modern kitchenettes on Jackson Lake. Trapper Grill, Leek's Pizzeria, Deadman's Bar, marina, store, gas, showers/laundry [7].
Colter Bay Village: 166 cabins, May 22-Sept 28. Ranch House restaurant, Pizzeria, laundry, grocery, marina, horse corrals [8].
Headwaters Lodge, Flagg Ranch: Early June-late September. Cabins, tent sites, full-hookup RV, restaurant, horseback, hiking, fly fishing [6].
CAMPGROUNDS (8 facilities, ~1,200 sites, Recreation.gov six-month rolling basis): Gros Ventre: 322 sites (279 standard, 39 electric, 4 group), Apr 26-Oct 10, 45-ft limit. Jenny Lake: 61 tent-only (51 standard, 10 hiker/biker), July 1-Sept 28, 7-day max, pay showers. Signal Mountain: 81 sites (56 standard, 25 electric), May 9-Oct 12, 30-ft limit, pay showers/laundry. Colter Bay Campground: 357 sites (324 standard, 13 ADA electric, 10 hiker/biker, 10 group), pay showers/laundry. Colter Bay RV Park: 112 full-hookup (102 pull-through, 10 back-in), 45-ft, no fire grates/generators. Colter Bay Tent Village: 66 semi-permanent (4 bunk beds, wood stove, fire pit, bear-proof storage, no electricity). Lizard Creek: 60 standard, June 13-Sept 8, 30-ft. Headwaters: 171 sites (34 standard, 97 full-hookup, 40 camper cabins), 45-ft [9].
CAMPGROUND FEES (as of 2025): $58 standard, $77 electric, $17 group/person, $117 full-hookup, $102 camper cabin. Backcountry permits: $20 base + $7/person/night (effective Jan 10, 2024) [2].
DINING: Dornan's (Moose): Year-round Trading Post (groceries, gas, camping supplies, deli), Dornan's Pizza, Chuckwagon (since 1948, 11:30a-8:00p summer 2025). Stores at Colter Bay, Signal Mountain, 24-hour fuel pumps. Major shopping: Jackson (12 miles), Albertsons, Smith's [10].
TRANSPORTATION: Jackson Hole Airport (7 miles north, only U.S. national park airport). Rental cars: Avis, Hertz, National, Thrifty, Budget [11]. Ground transport: START Bus, Alltrans (7:30a-7:00p, $14/ride, excludes $35 entrance fee), shuttles, taxis, ride-sharing [12]. Grand Teton Lodge Company complimentary shuttle for guests.
PARK ENTRANCES (road system open year-round): Moose (south): 15-20 min waits 9:00a-noon. Moran (east): Highway 26/287. North: John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway to Yellowstone (8-mile unstaffed zone). Granite Canyon (southwest): Moose-Wilson Road [13].
ACCESSIBILITY: Wheelchair-accessible parking at all centers with van options [4]. Craig Thomas: 9 spaces (4 van). Most lodging accessible except American Alpine Club. Headwaters accessible camping/RV. Gros Ventre, Jenny Lake, Colter Bay accessible sites. Grassy Lake: 8 campsites. Dining accessible at Flagg Ranch, Leeks, Colter Bay, Signal Mountain, Jackson Lake Lodge, Jenny Lake Lodge. Trails: Colter Bay headwall, Jackson Lake Dam, Menors Ferry, Jenny Lake shore. Teton Adaptive Sports partnership. Free lifetime Access Pass (in-person with documentation). Info: 307-739-3399 Mon-Fri, TTY/TDD 307-739-3301. Self-Evaluation Plan: parkplanning.nps.gov/tetonaccess.
Conservation And Sustainability
Grand Teton National Park addresses conservation through science-based management across the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, accommodating 3.4 million+ annual visitors as of 2023 [1].
Climate change poses the most significant long-term threat. Moran Junction temperature data (1911-2022) shows nighttime temperatures increased 3-4°F; projections indicate 6-14°F increases by late century [2]. Freezing seasons will reduce 7-14 weeks; days exceeding 85°F increase to 41-76 annually by 2070-2099 (vs. 20 in 2003). Winter snowpack may shrink to one-third of current length; peak snowpack could reduce 50%+ at lower elevations. Snow cover days projected to decline 100-200+ annually [2]. Cold-adapted species face displacement as invasive species like cheatgrass threaten ecosystems.
Grizzly bear recovery: populations crashed to ~136 (mid-1970s) but recovered to 1,000+ by 2024, exceeding recovery goals for two decades [3]. Remain threatened as of January 2024; 70+ died in 2024, mostly from vehicle collisions [4]. Wolves returned to Yellowstone in 1995, recolonized Grand Teton by 1998; 100+ wolves in eight packs inhabit Yellowstone [3]. Path of the Pronghorn: 300-400 pronghorns, 150-mile migration, 6,800-year-old route, longest in lower 48 states [5]. December 2024: 100M-dollar Kelly parcel purchase (62.4M Land and Water Conservation Fund, 37.6M private donations) permanently protects migration corridors [6].
Invasive species threats: Lake trout (abundant by 1906) caused native Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat decline by 1930s [7]. Spread Creek Fish Passage Project—Phase 1 (2010) opened 50+ miles of watershed; Phase 2 (July 2022) installed 1.6M-dollar fish screen [8]. Mountain goats (introduced 1969-1971, migrated to Teton Range 1977, entered park 1979) threaten bighorn sheep [9]. Zebra/quagga mussels and Eurasian milfoil managed via two mandatory boat inspection stations [10]. Cheatgrass increases wildfire risk; Jackson Hole Weed Management treated 7,000+ acres in 2023 [11].
Fire management balances suppression near developed areas with wilderness monitoring [12]. The 2016 Berry Fire exemplified this approach. Prescribed burning and fuel reduction reduce wildfire risk; Teton Interagency Fire coordinates across agencies [12].
Whitebark pine (decimated by white pine blister rust fungus and climate change) received 1M-dollar grant in May 2024 from Life Time Foundation [13]. American Forests pioneered direct seeding trials; expanded staffing fall 2024 for Rocky Mountain projects [14].
Visitor management: Visitation reached 3.4 million in 2023 (22% increase). Wildlife Brigade (established 2007) includes bear biologist, two seasonal rangers, 30+ volunteers, seven days/week coverage [15]. By August 2024: 651 wildlife jams (two-thirds involved bears) [16]. In 2024: relocated four food-habituated black bears, euthanized two [16].
Air quality monitoring station established 2011 [17]. Greater Yellowstone Network (established 2000) enhances scientific stewardship; water quality data published through 2024 [18]. Zero Landfill Initiative targets 60% waste diversion by 2030 via source-separate recycling, composting pilots, and Green Partners Program across communities [1].