Lónsöræfi

Lónsöræfi is a remote wilderness nature reserve covering approximately 320 km² (around 34,500 hectares) in the eastern Icelandic highlands, characterised by its colourful rhyolite mountains, deep valleys, glacial tongues of Vatnajökull, and dramatically sculpted landscapes accessible only to prepared hikers. ^[1] The reserve's name translates to 'Lón Wilderness,' referring to its position behind the Lón lagoon on Iceland's southeastern coast. Protected in accordance with the Nature Conservation Act in 1977, the area encompasses mountain ranges rising over 1,000 metres, including the peaks of Innfjöll and Eskifell, framed by snow and glaciers. ^[1] The area's geological diversity, with mountains displaying vivid red, yellow, green, and purple colours from rhyolite and intrusive volcanic rocks, creates landscapes of extraordinary visual impact. Lónsöræfi is considered the equivalent of a national park in ecological and scenic significance.

The harsh highland conditions limit wildlife, though Arctic foxes are present year-round, and reindeer herds — descended from Norwegian animals introduced in the late 18th century — range through the lower valleys. Pink-footed geese breed in remote valleys, while purple sandpipers, snow buntings, and golden plovers nest on the open terrain during summer. The rivers flowing from the reserve support Arctic char populations in lower reaches. The area's remoteness means wildlife is relatively undisturbed, with the fox population exhibiting less fear of humans than in more frequented areas. Glacier tongues of Vatnajökull visible from within the reserve are also habitat and travel routes for species adapted to glacial margins.

Vegetation is sparse due to the high elevation, harsh climate, and young volcanic soils, with the most developed plant communities restricted to sheltered valley floors. Moss heaths of Racomitrium species cover stable terrain at lower elevations, while scattered willows, grasses, and flowering plants colonise sheltered riverbanks and south-facing slopes. The colourful mineral soils in many areas are too unstable for plant colonisation, remaining bare despite thousands of years of potential development. The harsh growing conditions mean plant communities are extremely vulnerable to disturbance, with recovery times measured in decades.

Lónsöræfi displays exceptional geological diversity, with the volcanic succession in the mountains dating primarily to 5–7 million years ago — among the oldest exposed geology in Iceland's East Fjords. ^[1] The rhyolite mountains — formed from viscous, silica-rich magma — weather into dramatic peaks and ridges, their colourful mineral composition creating the vivid palette visible throughout the reserve. Within the reserve and its surroundings are the remains of several central volcanoes, including Kollumúlaeldstöðvar in the heart of the reserve, Lónseldstöðvar near the settlement, and Flugustaðaeldstöðvar on the eastern border. Active glaciers including the Eyjabakkajökull tongue of Vatnajökull continue to carve and reshape the landscape, while glacial rivers carry enormous sediment loads through steep-walled valleys. The youngest geological features were created during the ice age, overlying the older Tertiary volcanic sequences.

The highland interior location creates severe conditions with short, cool summers and long, harsh winters with persistent snow and ice cover. Average summer temperatures reach only 5–8 degrees Celsius at typical hiking elevations, with frost possible in any month. Precipitation is high, much falling as snow that accumulates into the glaciers. Rapid weather changes are characteristic, with clear conditions deteriorating to rain, fog, or snow within hours. Rivers can rise dramatically and unpredictably from glacial melt or rainfall, making crossings dangerous without experience and proper timing.

The inhospitable highland terrain was never permanently settled, though historical records mention use as summer pastures for sheep and as travel routes between coastal settlements. Outlaws fleeing justice reportedly took refuge in the remote valleys during the medieval period, surviving in conditions considered beyond the reach of organised search. The area remained largely unknown to outsiders until systematic exploration in the 20th century mapped its geography and geology. The traditional Icelandic autumn sheep roundup occasionally brought farmers into the reserve margins to recover livestock that had wandered into the highlands. In modern times the reserve has become a destination for experienced wilderness hikers, with a well-known multi-day route connecting Snæfell with the Stafafell farm in the south.

Lónsöræfi received nature reserve protection in accordance with the Nature Conservation Act at the beginning of 1977, with the approval of landowners, recognising the area's wilderness character and outstanding geological heritage. ^[1] The reserve's remoteness provided natural protection until improved access and growing adventure tourism brought increasing human presence in the latter 20th century. In the early 1990s, the Icelandic touring associations built mountain cabins at Múlaskáli (1991–92) and beside Lake Kollumúlavatn (1993), and a third cabin at Geldingafell had been built earlier, enabling multi-day hiking routes. A Land Ranger stationed at Múlaskáli during summer provides information services and monitors visitor impacts. Management focuses on maintaining wilderness conditions while providing basic safety infrastructure for hikers entering this demanding terrain.

The multi-day hiking route through Lónsöræfi traverses some of Iceland's most spectacular and colourful mountain landscapes, typically taking 4–6 days depending on route and conditions. ^[1] A classic route connects Snæfell in the north with Stafafell farm in the south, passing through dramatic highland terrain. Highlights include the Múlaskáli valley with its rainbow-coloured mountains, views of Vatnajökull glacier outlets, and the valley around Kollumúlavatn lake at 630 metres elevation. The reserve features ten marked hiking routes ranging from accessible valley hikes to technically demanding mountain ascents, including Sauðhamarstindur (1,319 m) which requires climbing equipment. ^[1] The challenge of multiple unbridged river crossings adds adventure to the natural beauty.

Access requires a full day's hiking from road access points near the Lón lagoon on Iceland's southeastern coast, or longer approaches from the highland interior. Three mountain huts — at Múlaskáli, beside Lake Kollumúlavatn, and at Geldingafell — provide basic shelter at key locations and are spaced at suitable intervals for hikers making the Stafafell–Snæfell traverse. ^[1] A Land Ranger is stationed at Múlaskáli during summer. Hikers must be fully self-sufficient with food, equipment, and navigation skills. The hiking season is restricted to July through early September, with river conditions and snow cover determining actual accessibility each year. Off-road driving within the reserve is prohibited.

The primary conservation objective is maintaining the area's wilderness character, with management resisting infrastructure development that would reduce the remote, challenging nature of the experience. Erosion from foot traffic on fragile highland soils creates visible trail scars that recover extremely slowly, requiring periodic route adjustment to distribute impact. Waste management in the absence of removal services requires strict carry-in, carry-out practices by all visitors. Climate change is causing glacier retreat that alters the landscape and river systems, while potentially extending the accessible season and attracting more visitors to this sensitive environment. The reserve's very large area (approximately 320 km²) provides a degree of resilience but monitoring of plant and glacier conditions remains essential. ^[1]