Kerlingarfjöll

Kerlingarfjöll is a spectacular mountain range and geothermal area located in the central highlands of Iceland, straddling the boundary between the South and Highland regions. Rising to 1,477 meters at its highest peak, Snækollur, this rhyolite mountain system encompasses approximately 300 square kilometers of dramatic peaks, colorful geothermal valleys, and remnant glaciers. The name translates to 'The Mountains of the Old Woman,' referencing a troll legend associated with a distinctive rock formation. Once one of Iceland's most inaccessible wilderness areas, Kerlingarfjöll has become increasingly popular since the improvement of highland roads, drawing visitors to its remarkable combination of fire and ice landscapes, including the famous Hveradalir geothermal area with its vivid mineral-stained hillsides and steaming hot springs.

The harsh highland environment of Kerlingarfjöll supports a limited but well-adapted wildlife community capable of surviving at high elevations. Arctic foxes, Iceland's only native land mammal, hunt throughout the mountain range, their populations sustained by the ptarmigan and smaller birds that nest among the rocks and vegetation. Pink-footed geese frequent the lower valleys during migration, while snow buntings and meadow pipits breed in sheltered areas during the brief summer. The geothermal areas create unique microhabitats where the warmth allows certain invertebrates to thrive year-round. Mink, introduced to Iceland for fur farming and now feral, occasionally venture into the highlands. The absence of large herbivores allows vegetation in ungrazed areas to develop more fully than in lowland Iceland, though the growing season remains extremely short.

Kerlingarfjöll's flora demonstrates remarkable adaptations to extreme conditions including long winters, strong winds, volcanic soils, and short growing seasons. The geothermal areas of Hveradalir support particularly interesting plant communities, where ground warmth extends the growing season and creates temperature gradients that compress multiple vegetation zones into small areas. Hardy mosses and thermophilic algae colonize the edges of hot springs, transitioning to grasses and sedges slightly further from heat sources. Rhyolite hillsides host colorful carpets of moss campion, alpine azalea, and various saxifrages during the brief summer flowering period. At higher elevations, vegetation becomes increasingly sparse, with only the hardiest lichens and cushion plants surviving on exposed ridges. The valleys between peaks shelter dwarf willow and birch scrub in more protected locations.

Kerlingarfjöll represents one of Iceland's most geologically dramatic landscapes, formed by volcanic activity beneath thick glacial ice during the Pleistocene epoch. The mountains consist primarily of rhyolite, a silica-rich volcanic rock that weathers into spectacular colors ranging from pale gray to orange, yellow, and red. Unlike Iceland's more common dark basalt formations, this rhyolite creates the mountain range's distinctive pale, colorful appearance. The Hveradalir geothermal field demonstrates ongoing volcanic activity, with fumaroles, mud pots, and hot springs indicating a shallow magma chamber beneath the surface. Steam vents emerge through fractured rock, and mineral-laden waters deposit bright yellow sulfur, white silica, and iron-oxide reds across the thermal areas. Small remnant glaciers cling to northern slopes, remnants of much larger ice masses that once covered the entire region and shaped its dramatic peaks and valleys.

Kerlingarfjöll experiences an extreme highland climate characterized by long, harsh winters and brief, cool summers. At elevations above 1,000 meters, temperatures remain below freezing for most of the year, with winter temperatures occasionally dropping below -25°C. Summer temperatures rarely exceed 10-12°C even during the warmest periods, and frost can occur any night of the year. Annual precipitation is substantial, falling primarily as snow, which accumulates to great depths during winter and lingers well into summer on north-facing slopes. The mountain range creates its own weather patterns, often remaining shrouded in clouds when surrounding areas are clear. Fierce winds can develop rapidly, making weather conditions notoriously unpredictable. The geothermal areas create visible contrasts where steam rises continuously and some ground remains snow-free year-round despite the harsh climate.

Kerlingarfjöll remained one of Iceland's least-known wilderness areas for most of human history, too remote and inhospitable for permanent settlement but occasionally crossed by travelers taking interior routes between settlements. The name derives from Norse legend: a female troll named Kerling was supposedly turned to stone by sunlight while returning from a fishing expedition, her petrified form visible as a distinctive rock formation. Medieval outlaws reportedly used the highlands as refuge, and some sources suggest criminals condemned to lesser punishments were banished to survive in such wastelands. During the 18th and 19th centuries, occasional expeditions by naturalists and surveyors documented the area's remarkable geology, though it remained extremely difficult to access. Sheep grazing at the highland margins brought farmers into occasional contact with the mountains' edges, but the interior remained true wilderness until the mid-20th century.

Kerlingarfjöll's development as a destination began in 1945 with the establishment of a mountain hut by the Icelandic Touring Association (Ferðafélag Íslands), making extended visits to the area possible for the first time. The current mountain center, originally a ski resort attempted in the 1970s but abandoned due to inaccessibility, was revitalized in 2000 as a summer hiking destination. The nature reserve designation, covering the geothermal areas and surrounding peaks, was established to protect the fragile thermal features and unique geology from damage. Management responsibility is shared between the Environment Agency of Iceland and private operators of the mountain center. Since the early 2000s, improved highland roads have transformed Kerlingarfjöll from a destination requiring expedition-level commitment to one accessible during summer months by properly equipped vehicles, leading to significant increases in visitation.

The Hveradalir geothermal valley serves as Kerlingarfjöll's primary attraction, offering visitors an otherworldly landscape of steaming vents, bubbling mud pots, and hillsides painted in vivid yellows, oranges, and reds by mineral deposits. Several marked hiking trails of varying difficulty explore this remarkable terrain, ranging from short walks of an hour or two to challenging full-day expeditions reaching high passes and remnant glaciers. The trail to Snækollur, the highest peak at 1,477 meters, rewards strong hikers with panoramic views across the central highlands to distant ice caps. The hot spring bathing area near the mountain center provides a memorable way to experience the geothermal activity. Photographers find endless subjects in the contrast of ice and fire landscapes, particularly during the brief midnight sun period when golden light illuminates the colorful thermal areas. Winter ski touring has gained popularity among experienced backcountry enthusiasts.

Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort provides the primary accommodation and services within the area, offering a range of options from camping facilities to mountain huts and basic cabins. A small restaurant operates during the summer season, though visitors should bring supplementary food supplies given the remote location. The mountain center also offers guided tours, equipment rental, and local expertise essential for safe highland travel. Access is via the Kjölur highland road (F35), typically passable from late June to early September depending on conditions, requiring a properly equipped 4WD vehicle. The journey from Reykjavík takes approximately 3-4 hours via the highland route or significantly longer via the paved coastal roads. Public highland buses operate seasonally, providing an option for visitors without 4WD vehicles. No fuel is available in the area; the nearest service stations are at Gullfoss/Geysir or in the northern towns.

Conservation at Kerlingarfjöll focuses on protecting the fragile geothermal features and highland ecosystems from degradation while allowing sustainable tourism access. The geothermal areas are particularly vulnerable to trampling, with damage to thermal crusts potentially destroying features that took centuries to form. Strict requirements to remain on marked trails aim to prevent such damage, and ongoing trail maintenance ensures visitors can safely access key viewpoints while minimizing environmental impact. Climate change poses long-term challenges, as rising temperatures accelerate glacial retreat and alter the delicate balance of ice and thermal activity that creates the area's unique character. Management efforts include monitoring glacial extent, tracking vegetation changes, and studying how altered hydrology affects geothermal features. Educational programs at the mountain center help visitors understand the sensitivity of highland ecosystems and the importance of responsible travel in these fragile landscapes.