China Muerta

China Muerta National Reserve is a protected area in the Araucanía Region of south-central Chile, located in the Andean cordillera east of the city of Temuco. The reserve covers approximately 9,887 hectares of high-plateau terrain situated between the Tolhuaca and Lonquimay volcanic complexes at elevations largely above 1,600 meters. ^[1] The name, meaning "dead woman" in Spanish, refers to the plateau's flat, treeless appearance when viewed from surrounding peaks. Established on June 28, 1968 by Supreme Decree No. 330, CONAF administers the reserve, which protects a unique transitional highland ecosystem between Andean forest and Patagonian steppe, and serves as an important water catchment area for the Cautín River basin. The reserve forms part of the Araucarias Biosphere Reserve designated by UNESCO in 1983. ^[2]

The reserve's high-altitude plateau and surrounding forest support a fauna adapted to cold Andean conditions. The puma is the apex predator, preying on guanacos that graze the open plateau. Culpeo fox and chilla fox are common. Andean condors soar on thermal currents above the plateau rim. The reserve's wetlands and streams provide habitat for several waterfowl species. The temperate forest margins shelter the chucao tapaculo and the Magellanic woodpecker. Pudú, the diminutive native deer, uses dense shrub cover on lower slopes. CONAF records pumas, and birds including torcazas (pigeons) and various raptors among the reserve's fauna. ^[1]

China Muerta's vegetation is dominated by the monkey puzzle tree (araucaria, Araucaria araucana), Chile's national tree, which forms extensive open forests across the plateau and surrounding slopes. ^[1] These araucaria woodlands are among the most intact in the Araucanía Region. CONAF also records cordilleran cypress (Austrocedrus chilensis) and lleuque (Prumnopitys andina) among the protected flora. ^[2] The understory of araucaria stands consists of native bamboo (quila, Chusquea culeou), coigüe de Magallanes, and lenga at higher elevations. Cushion plants and Patagonian grasses carpet the open plateau areas between tree stands. The araucaria produces large edible seeds (piñones) that are culturally and ecologically significant as a food source for both wildlife and the Pehuenche Mapuche people.

The reserve sits on a high volcanic plateau formed by Pleistocene lava flows and pyroclastic deposits from the nearby Tolhuaca and Lonquimay volcanoes. Tolhuaca volcano (2,806 m) and the Navidad cone of Lonquimay (2,865 m) are geologically active centers whose historical eruptions have shaped the plateau's flat, lava-capped surface. ^[1]) ^[2]) Underlying geology consists of Quaternary volcanic rocks overlying older Mesozoic basement. The plateau's impermeable volcanic substrate creates numerous bogs, peat wetlands, and small lakes that are poorly drained compared to surrounding terrain. Hot springs associated with geothermal activity occur near the reserve's margins. The 1988–1990 eruption of Lonquimay's Navidad cone—which began on December 25, 1988 and lasted 13 months—deposited ash across the reserve and surrounding region. ^[2])

The reserve experiences a cold, humid Andean climate strongly influenced by its high elevation and proximity to the Pacific storm track. Annual precipitation exceeds 2,500 millimeters, much of it falling as snow between April and October. Mean annual temperatures hover near 4°C on the plateau, with winter minimums regularly below -10°C. The growing season is short, lasting only from November to March. Strong westerly winds are persistent across the open plateau year-round. The plateau is frequently snowbound for extended periods in winter, limiting wildlife mobility and visitor access; the reserve closes seasonally from May onward due to snow on access roads. ^[1] Summer brings brief but intense thunderstorms. The combination of cold temperatures, high precipitation, and volcanic soils creates the poorly drained conditions that support the reserve's extensive bog habitats.

The China Muerta plateau and surrounding araucaria forests have been the traditional territory of the Pehuenche Mapuche, a highland branch of the Mapuche people whose name means "people of the pehuén (araucaria)." The piñon harvest from araucaria forests was a crucial food source and formed the basis of Pehuenche social and ceremonial life. These communities conducted seasonal migrations between high-altitude araucaria groves in autumn for the harvest and lower valleys in winter. Spanish and Chilean colonization of the region in the nineteenth century progressively displaced Pehuenche communities from their traditional territories. Land conflicts over araucaria forest access between Pehuenche communities and the Chilean state continue in the region.

China Muerta was designated a National Reserve on June 28, 1968 by Supreme Decree No. 330 of the Ministry of Agriculture, to protect its extensive araucaria forests, which had been subject to logging and agricultural clearing in the broader Araucanía Region. ^[1] CONAF management has focused on patrolling against illegal timber extraction of araucaria, a species legally protected in Chile since 1990 and listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List since 2013. ^[2] The reserve is part of the Araucarias Biosphere Reserve (UNESCO, 1983), which groups together ten protected areas in the Araucanía Region. ^[3] Research programs on araucaria ecology, fire dynamics, and climate change adaptation have been conducted by Chilean universities in partnership with CONAF. The reserve is part of the Araucanía Protected Area System alongside Tolhuaca and Lonquimay national parks.

The reserve offers hiking trails through araucaria forest and across the open volcanic plateau with panoramic views of surrounding volcanoes including Tolhuaca (2,806 m), Lonquimay (2,865 m), and Sierra Nevada. ^[1]) CONAF maintains three hiking routes ranging from easy (435 m) to moderate (3.6 km). ^[2] The iconic araucaria trees, some estimated to be over 1,000 years old, are the primary attraction. The plateau's open terrain allows excellent wildlife observation, particularly for condors and guanacos. Autumn visits coincide with the piñon harvest season, when araucaria seeds blanket the ground and wildlife activity is at its peak. The nearby Malalcahuello area provides accommodation and services for visitors accessing both the reserve and Lonquimay National Park.

The reserve is accessed via Route 181 from the town of Curacautín, approximately 80 kilometers northeast of Temuco. A CONAF entrance station with basic facilities marks the main access point; the reserve is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM, closing seasonally from May onward due to snow. ^[1] The village of Malalcahuello nearby offers accommodation options including a ski center at the foot of Lonquimay volcano. The reserve is accessible by road in the summer months, though winter snow restricts access to the plateau interior. The area is a popular weekend destination for Temuco residents seeking mountain scenery and wildlife observation.

Conservation challenges in China Muerta center on protecting the araucaria forest from illegal logging, controlling introduced herbivores that prevent forest regeneration, and managing the impacts of increasing tourism. The araucaria (Araucaria araucana) is listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List since 2013 due to historic overexploitation and ongoing pressures including fire, grazing, and collection of cones. ^[1] Cattle grazing from adjacent properties occasionally penetrates the reserve and suppresses araucaria seedling establishment. CONAF coordinates with Pehuenche communities on co-management arrangements that recognize traditional relationships with araucaria forests while maintaining conservation objectives. Climate change monitoring projects track the response of high-elevation araucaria populations to warming temperatures and altered precipitation patterns, data critical for long-term forest management.