Coolah Tops

Coolah Tops National Park is a tableland protected area in the Liverpool Ranges of central New South Wales, located approximately 50 kilometres south of Coonabarabran and 50 kilometres north of Mudgee. Covering around 26,000 hectares, the park protects significant areas of basalt-based forests and woodlands on the Coolah Tops plateau, a distinctive elevated basalt surface that rises above the surrounding sandstone and volcanic ranges. The park is notable for its extensive stands of alpine ash forest, subalpine woodland, and snow-gum communities at the southern extremity of their distribution, providing important habitat for a range of cool-temperate fauna and flora.

Coolah Tops National Park supports a diverse fauna community adapted to the cool, basalt-topped plateau environment. Eastern grey kangaroos and swamp wallabies are common in open areas, and the common wombat is frequently seen at dusk. Yellow-bellied gliders and greater gliders inhabit the tall ash forest, which provides both den trees and bark for glider feeding. The powerful owl and sooty owl are present in the denser forest. Gang-gang cockatoos, a species of the southeastern mountains, forage in the forest at the edge of their range. The plateau streams support platypus, and a range of alpine frogs breed in the seasonal wetlands.

The vegetation of Coolah Tops is dominated by alpine ash and mountain gum forest on the deep basaltic soils of the plateau, representing the southernmost substantial stands of alpine ash in eastern Australia. Snowgum woodland occurs on the more exposed ridges and shallow-soiled areas of the plateau. Subalpine heathland with alpine daisies, snow celery, and various heaths covers open areas on the highest ground. The basalt soils support a grassy understorey that is particularly species-rich, with a suite of native grasses and wildflowers more typical of the alpine tablelands. The park's position between the warmer western slopes and the cool ranges gives it an unusual combination of plant species.

The Coolah Tops plateau is capped by Cenozoic basalt flows of the Liverpool Ranges volcanic province, which erupted approximately 50 million years ago and created the fertile, flat-topped tableland that characterises the park. The basalt overlies much older Permian and Triassic sedimentary rocks that are exposed around the plateau margins. The basalt weathers to produce deep, fertile, reddish-brown soils that support the tall ash forest. The abrupt escarpment edges of the plateau, where the basalt cap has been undercut by erosion, create dramatic landscape features and provide rocky habitat for cliff-dwelling fauna.

Coolah Tops National Park has a cool temperate climate reflecting its elevation of approximately 1,200 to 1,300 metres above sea level on the basalt plateau. Winters are cold, with regular heavy frosts and occasional snow events in June, July, and August. Annual rainfall averages 900 to 1,100 millimetres, distributed through the year with a slight summer maximum from thunderstorms. Summer temperatures on the plateau are mild, rarely exceeding 25°C. The plateau can experience fog and low cloud, particularly in winter. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable visiting seasons, with clear skies and moderate temperatures.

The Wiradjuri and Kamilaroi peoples are the traditional custodians of the Liverpool Ranges, with the elevated basalt country providing seasonal hunting grounds and a cooler refuge during summer. The fertile basalt soils of the plateau attracted European settlers, who recognised the pastoral potential of the grassland and woodland country from the 1820s. Dairying became the primary land use on the basalt plateau, and the rich volcanic soils supported productive pastures. Timber cutting of the ash forest provided material for construction throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Coolah Tops National Park was gazetted in 1998 following recognition of the ecological significance of the basalt plateau forests and their importance for cool-temperate species at the margin of their range. The park was assembled from state forest, Crown land, and private land acquisitions. Management priorities include maintaining the ecological integrity of the ash forest and subalpine communities, controlling invasive weeds particularly blackberry and exotic grasses, and managing feral deer that have become a significant problem on the plateau. The park is relatively rarely visited and retains a genuine wilderness quality.

Coolah Tops National Park offers a range of walking tracks through the ash forest and subalpine woodland, with panoramic views from the plateau rim across the surrounding ranges and plains. The Lorne Road, a scenic forest drive, passes through the park and provides access to several viewpoints and picnic areas. Walking tracks explore the diverse forest and heath communities of the plateau. Wildflower displays in spring and summer are impressive, with alpine daisies, native bluebells, and various orchids flowering in the subalpine meadows. Wildlife watching, particularly for gliders, wombats, and woodland birds, is rewarding in the evenings.

Coolah Tops National Park is accessed from Coolah township via Warrumbungle Road and Lorne Road, approximately 50 kilometres from the park entry. A camping area is available on the plateau with basic facilities. The Lorne Road is unsealed and may require four-wheel drive in wet conditions. The nearest comprehensive services are in Coolah township, approximately 50 kilometres from the park. The park is approximately 420 kilometres from Sydney via the Golden Highway through Dubbo or the New England Highway through Tamworth. The park is best visited in spring or autumn.

Conservation management in Coolah Tops National Park focuses on protecting the alpine ash forest, which is a fire-sensitive community that can be killed by high-intensity fires. Fire management aims to maintain appropriate fire regimes that support forest regeneration without causing catastrophic overstorey loss. Feral deer are an increasing management challenge, with browsing pressure threatening the forest understorey and soil disturbance damaging sensitive subalpine communities. Blackberry control is ongoing in areas of forest disturbance. The park's isolation on the basalt plateau creates management challenges for resources and access, particularly in winter when the access roads may be closed by snow or ice.